30 March 08

The day got off to a bad start as Emily had half an hour of chest-wracking crying that had my blood pressure soaring, and Nick had to come to the rescue. Though the weather was cooler and the sky grey, we went out as planned to Hamarikyu Garden, on the edge of Tokyo Bay, for a bit of much-needed relaxation.

This lovely green oasis among the new skyscrapers of Shiodome was formerly a shogun's hunting ground. It has a nice variety of trees, including the obligatory cherries and carefully-pruned pines. Near the entrance is a huge, attractive 300-year old pine

and past that a small field of yellow rape. It was a bit odd to see something grown as a crop back home being treated as a visitor attraction, but it seemed very popular and certainly smelled fragrant.

On our way from Hamarikyu to Yurakucho, we came across a steam train outside Shimbashi station and thought of Graham. Further on we happened upon a nationalist rally; the sinister participants would make the BNP back home look like pussycats.

29 March 08

Hanami time (cherry blossom viewing): it was a nice day and we decided to brave the crowds (and boy, were there crowds) and go to Ueno Park in north east Tokyo. The mass of people queuing to leave the station gave us prior warning of what we would find when we got into the park. The main avenue of trees was superb and it was understandable that so many thousands would want to stroll under them.

Everywhere on the ground, groups of merrymakers were picnicking on plastic sheeting put down on the dirt floor for the purpose. One middle-aged couple rather oddly had a large plastic doll sitting at their makeshift table. Homeless men were rummaging in the many rubbish collection points for recyclable items that they could sell.

We headed for the nearby lake in the hope of finding somewhere quieter to eat and feed Emily, but there was no respite from the crowds. Yet another very public breastfeeding session. Near our perch on a low wall, we spotted a couple of sumo wrestlers having a picnic as we tucked into okonomiyaki (shredded cabbage, onion, egg and batter cooked on a griddle). As usual, Emily attracted plenty of attention and admiring comments. They really do love her big eyes and pale complexion.

We moved on to Asakusa and the Sumida riverside, hoping to find somewhere we could take Emily out of the sling to lie and kick for a while, but had to settle for some steps beneath an elevated expressway looking out on the river and more sakura on the opposite bank. We were beneath the Asahi building, topped by a Philippe Starck creation, the Flamme d'Or (also known as the Golden Turd!).

I had been amused since I got to Tokyo by the pampered pooches that are often carried by their owners, and sometimes pushed in special pet-prams. Spotting a pair of these lazy creatures I couldn't resist asking if I could take a photo. No doubt the owner thought I was admiring her two precious toy dogs.

27 March 08

I made an important acclimatisation step forward by going somewhere I hadn't been to with Nick, and the journey involved a change of tube line (which I'd avoided having to do so far). Of course, it went smoothly, and I felt a lot more confident as a result.


I met Tracy (and Lottie, 5 weeks) at the gates of the British Embassy, where she works, and she had asked Sharon along too, with her baby, Taylor, who is Emily's age. We walked along a veritable avenue of cherry trees in full blossom regalia.
It was lunchtime, and extremely busy with Hanami viewers stopping suddenly to take snaps. Understandable, as it really did look very pretty. We carried on to Yasakuni, the controvertial national shrine for war dead, which was being set up for a Hanami festival, and sat on some tarpaulins laid out on the ground. We had our picnics then all had to feed our babies. It was quite busy but I managed to make myself decent; it was uncomfortable without back support though. A nice afternoon, and I felt quite hopeful that Emily would have a few little playmates when she's older.

25 March 08

Emily's 3-month jabs were overdue, so I had arranged to get them done at an International Clinic. She was very brave, and was smiling at the nurse a minute after the needles had gone in. Like the first vaccinations, I think I suffered more than she did. Paying for them was very painful too: Y46,000 (£230) for something that is free at home. Ouch.

The clinic was right opposite Tokyo Tower. This Eiffel Tower rip-off is actually slightly higher than its inspiration, and painted gaudily in red and white stripes. Since it was a lovely day I bought a bento box and we sat in a nearby park. I enjoyed the contrast of a glorious cherry blossom tree with the tower looming above it, against a blue sky dotted with puffy clouds.

23 March 08

Another glorious sunny day. We set off in search of Happoen garden, which has a good write up in the guide book and is close to our apartment. The review was justified as it is certainly an exquisite little place. The name apparently means 'lovely from all angles'. The centrepiece is a small lake set in a natural depression, with obligatory carp of many colours of course. Though surrounded by modern buildings you forget they are there as you lose yourself in the tranquility. You and dozens of wedding guests, that is: Nick enquired and was told they had 17 weddings on that day! In one corner of the garden was a little 'chapel' complete with stained glass window and recorded wedding bells. I had the impression that it would look lovely in all seasons; it had some blossom trees and maples,naturally. At the waterside was a dear little hut with a round window and a couple of rough-hewn benches inside, and I vowed to return at a quieter time so I could enjoy in solitude the sunlit ripples reflected inside on the wooden roof.

It was far too nice to return to the flat, so we bought a picnic and carried on along Shirokanedai to the National Park for Nature Studies - a grand name for a simple but enjoyable space in the heart of the city. It has many mature trees and shrubs, the vision being to recreate what might have been found naturally here before Toyko came about. It's large enough not to feel crowded, even on a nice weekend. Emily was stirring from a long slumber in the sling by now, and we were famished, so we went to the wooden shelter by the pond and ate. Walking home afterwards, Nick felt dampness around his midriff under the sling strap and we realised that Emily's nappy must have leaked! Back at the apartment, we found that it was a very splatty poo - yet more clothes to be scrubbed.

22 March 08

(Emily and I arrived in Tokyo on March 7th, but it took a couple of weeks before I had time or inclination to begin my blog)

After two weeks' acclimatisation, this was our first foray out of the megalopolis. We took the train south west to Kamakura, along with a zillion other daytrippers in their Sunday best making the most of the warm spring sunshine. As we passed through Yokohama I spotted mighty Fuji-san flashing by through the apartment blocks, wearing a cape of snow.

Emily co-operated until we were nearly at our destination, whereupon we hurried to a small shore-side park so I could feed her. Al fresco breastfeeding, not for the first time. We tucked into our sarnies as well, but Nick lost part of his to one of the many black kites wheeling overhead; he let out a yelp as it swooped in and grabbed the bread with amazing accuracy. Looking south from our vantage point, Fuji loomed large, appearing to hover above the sea due to haze around its base.

As we walked along the promenade I saw regular signs warning about tsunamis, prompting me to look around for possible places to run to, should the sea start to recede.

On the sands there were racks of green kelp strands hanging out to dry. We followed the crowds to Hase-dera temple, a couple of streets back. It's a charming complex with some beautiful trees and shrubs, just beginning to put on their spring finery. The main feature is a large 11-headed statue, but it also has some little caves housing carvings and hundreds of tiny statuettes.

On the way back to the station, passing one of many flower shops, I spotted some daphne shrubs for sale. These fragrant bushes are everywhere right now and I had been looking for one for the balcony, so bought one and took it home. Luckily the train was near empty going back, as Emily was hungry. Nick says I am becoming quite a militant breastfeeder, but I just have to get on and do it to save being flustered in public by a bawling baby.