30 April 08

I'd been trying to arrange to meet Sharon for a couple of weeks, and she called to ask if we'd like to go to Shiba Koen later.


It was really hot out, like the height of an English summer, and I wished the next few months here could be like this as it is the top end of my heat tolerance. I shall find it hard to force myself to go out much when it gets hotter and stickier, preferring to stay in with aircon on. We got to the park before Sharon arrived with Taylor, and I sat and watched a group of dog owners exercising their pooches. As usual the pets were dressed in some outlandish gear, and one dog had its ears and tail dyed yellow! Whatever next? At least they were being allowed to use their legs for once, though there were doggie prams in evidence nearby.


We sat on the grass for a while and exchanged notes on our babies' development. Taylor demonstrated that he has mastered rolling right over. He is 12 days older, so it can only be a matter of time. Sharon has not been able to establish a night routine yet so is still woken every three hours for feeding. Again, it made me realise how easy Emily is really. There was a class of schoolchildren nearby and they were group-skipping with about 20 kids on one rope. They managed a good 15 or more jumps in succession.


Afterwards we walked back via the little park beneath TokyoTower that I frequent, as Sharon hadn't noticed it before, then parted company. Such a shame that she will be back to work in June, as she is the only mum I know that lives in walking distance.

29 April 08

Another national holiday, this time Greenery Day, so Nick had a welcome day off work. We had decided to revisit Hamarikyu, and this time we walked there, though it was quite hot by the time we set off late morning.

On arrival we sat straight down in a sort of pine orchard for a picnic. In dappled shade beneath the trees we sat amid clover and violets, with a few butterflies putting in an appearance. Though there were quite a few fellow picnickers there was plenty of room to spread out, and despite the towering skyscrapers above, it was really pleasant and relaxing. Emily lay on the mat and ran her fingers through the grass while we tucked in.

After our meal, and a snack for Emily, we walked on around the salt-water lake and out to the bay-side path to look at the boats. Our route to the exit took us via the beds of peonies that were just past their best but still beautiful. There were many different colours, and some blooms with the diameter of dinner plates. They have a passing similarity with roses and a gentle scent.

As it was still quite early, we decided to risk walking on up to Ginza to pick up a few essentials at electronics megastore BIC Camera. For once we managed to get exactly what we needed, so we retained the feeling of relaxation gained earlier. On the way we passed a shop selling yukata, and as I'd been trying to find one for wearing around the flat we tried to get one. However, I hadn't realised that even with a yukata one normally wears an obi and some special ties. All I wanted was a cotton dressing gown type of thing really, so that was too complicated (and expensive). Shame, as it was rather pretty. There is a more informal, shorter sort of robe usually worn at onsen which would suit my needs better, so the search continues.

28 April 08

With trepidation, I took Emily for her 4 month immunisations. This time it was no fewer than three needles, poor thing. As before though, within a minute she was smiling again. Thank goodness there are no more until one year now, or we'll be bankrupt. I don't know how they can justify charging just under £400 for that.

Before the jabs, she was weighed and measured again. It must be due to the increased amounts of formula I've been giving her lately, but we knew she was 'chubbing up' nicely and the scales confirmed, as she weighed in at 6.56kg (14.5lbs). That puts her up nearly on the 50th centile. Lengthwise she remains on the 91st centile, at 65cm.

27April 08

It was a fine day so we headed over to Yoyogi park. I wanted to show Nick the part where I'd been for a picnic on Tuesday as he hadn't been there yet, and I felt sure that he'd like the trees and big open spaces. When we hit Harajuku station we found ourselves in a seething mass of humanity. There were the usual freaks camped out on the bridge over the railway, but there was much more to come.

How different it was on a busy, sunny Sunday than our peaceful picnic earlier in the week. A total assault on the senses - well, sight and sound anyway. At the entrance to the park crowds were gathered around a gang of rockers, clad in leathers, with motorbikes lined up for appreciation. Music was blaring and some of them were dancing, seemingly oblivious to the groups of onlookers. One ultra-cool character with lots of tattoos was grooming his slicked-back hair a la Travolta in Grease.


Moving on into the park, we just had to ask for a photo of two rather scary girls decked out in sugar pink like Little Bo Peep. They must expect to have their pictures taken, in get up like that, but seemed to submit to the photo quite sullenly. This sort of garb is actually found fairly often around Tokyo; grown women seem to enjoy dressing up like dolls. All part of the infantalisation culture.



We found a tree-shaded spot and spread out our picnic sheet then laid Emily down with us, where she lay grinning up at the canopy of leaves overhead and kicking her bare legs happily. Near our pitch there was plenty of interest: badminton players, a group of jugglers, some women practising Bollywood dancing to a bongo accompaniment, a guy producing giant bubbles using a rope dipped in a bucket of soap.


After a while we took a walk on into the park and encountered more activities: a group of martial artists practising staff patterns, some sort of ceilidh, students playing a tag game among the trees. Throughout Yoyogi there were countless dogs of all shapes and sizes being walked or carried about. Most of them were wearing clothing of some kind, in varying degrees of ridiculousness.

We came across an enclosed area where they were allowed to go off the lead, and it was clearly a place where owners took their pets to be admired. At the entrance you could be forgiven for thinking it was a child's nursery due to the row of prams parked outside, but these were all for pooches not kiddies.


Stopping at a cafe to feed Emily we tried a black sesame ice cream. I love sesame anyway and this was delicious, though an unappetising grey colour. On our way back to Harajuku we heard the throb of techno music and spotted a sort of mini-rave going on in the trees of about 50 people. Nearby some women were hula-hooping to the bassline. Back near the exit we found another group of hula-hoopers swinging their hips, this time gaily-dressed westerners. The rockers' music had been cranked up so loud that I feared for Emily's eardrums, so we hurried by as hastily as the crowds allowed and made for home.

22 April 08

Tracy had invited the mums & babies circle to a picnic in Yoyogi park, and luckily the weather was on our side with blue skies and a gentle breeze. Unfortunately Sharon couldn't come as Taylor hadn't been sleeping at all well; neither could a lady called Sam, who I have yet to meet, and her little baby Ami. So, it was just Tracy, Bettina and me, plus our babies.

We all managed to make it to Harajuku at the same time, and walked round into a part of the park that I hadn't been to before. It was really pleasant, with lots of mature trees and plenty of benches or grass to sit on. As well as gorgeous azaleas everywhere, current interest is provided by pretty pink and white dogwood trees. After feeding our hungry children, we laid out our food. We'd all brought a contribution, and it was a very healthy, homemade picnic (apart from the lemon cake at the end). The babies behaved well, and we cooed over the three of them lying on the rug together.

Emily held Lottie's hand a few times, and I was worried that she'd try to 'bite' her to relieve her teething aches. She almost constantly has something in her mouth this last week or so, though I can't see any sign of redness on her gums yet.

Later, we strolled to the exit from where they were walking home. It was only mid-afternoon so I decided to explore a bit more before I left. At the centre of the park was an open space where people were playing frisbee, badminton and ball games. There were three fountains playing in a small lake, surrounded by numerous benches.

Onlookers were entertained by several ad hoc musicians strumming guitar or softly tapping on bongo drums. There seemed rather a lot of young gaijin chilling out here, all of whom were tall and thin - as are many of the foreigners I see in Tokyo.

Emily had been extremely good, but was starting to get upset through tiredness on the way home. When she's at the tipping point it doesn't take much to get her crying,and I can almost guarantee that we'll pass a noisy pachinko parlour just as its doors open. They must be triple-glazed to muffle the hideous cacophony of hundreds of slot machines all making their own sounds. It's quite an obsession for Japanese of all ages, so you'll find a pachinko in nearly every street or mall. Goodness knows what the energy toll on the planet is.

20 April 08

Once Emily was fed and rested we got the train to Yokohama. It's a pleasant place in a sanitised super-Docklands sort of way, and an opportunity to see the bay. Being ravenous, on arrival we entered one of the huge buildings in search of lunch, and chanced upon a rather good, reasonable place that specialised in crab. Unlike most of the other eateries we'd looked at first it was quiet, so I was able to feed Emily in privacy. I had my first unagi (eel) since I got here, and Nick had a nicely presented sushi selection that included some of the house speciality. Emily had...milk.

Walking towards the bayside park, we passed a fairground beneath Landmark Tower, a soaring edifice that has about 70 floors.I look forward to a time when I have Emily as an excuse to go on the rides!

Spinning slowly above it all was a giant Ferris wheel that is purported to be bigger than the London Eye.

At the park we took in the views around the bay. It is industrialised but a nice place to catch a cool sea breeze when the oppressive summer heat comes, and the green space is large enough not to feel crowded. We'll have to get a kite. There was a very weird fruit sculpture lurking among the trees.

As ever, there were lots of spoilt dogs being carried around. One man was toting his husky on his shoulder! Just about every dog we saw was wearing some sort of clothing; one even had on a pair of pin-striped trousers.

On the return train trip, Emily attracted the attention of two bimbos in almost non-existent mini skirts. I'm not sure whether I'm being a prude, or jealous because I've never had good enough legs for short skirts, but I find the almost ubiquitous mini-skirts and hot-pants that teenagers and young women wear distasteful and trashy, especially in schoolgirls. Of course, I would have given my eye-teeth to be allowed to wear such raised hems as part of my uniform. Maybe Japanese girls yearn to wear knee-length A-line skirts!

With a certain amount of trepidation, I finally made it out for a jog before dinner. It was my first proper run since the week I found out I was pregnant (although I did continue at circuit training until month 6, which involved some running in the sports hall). Perhaps unsurprisingly, it went really well. I only did about 25 minutes, but was pleased that my heart and lungs still seemed in reasonable shape. Unfortunately my old calf strain came on towards the end, giving me concern for future outings, but I even managed to walk up to the 11th floor afterwards, arriving home with a very red face but having enjoyed my half hour of freedom.

When I got back, Nick pointed out a job advert in his paper that seemed almost tailor-made for me, being a payroll/accounts role at the British Council (apart from Japanese ability, that is - minor detail!). It only paid about 20K, but I was surprised a how wistful I felt about it. If I'd seen it later this year I probably would have looked into it further, but have no intention of working until Emily is at least a year old. Anyway, I'm not sure if I'd be able to get a work visa.

15 April 08

The warmest day of the year so far, though the light breeze was refreshingly cool. Emily and I went to meet Nick at lunchtime. I kitted her out in a very pretty dress and felt like a child playing at dressing up a doll.

Poor Nick: the timing of our meetings is never good for Emily's routine (such as it is) and she invariably starts crying.

This country must be the world's biggest buyer of flesh-coloured tights; Nora Batty would be in seventh heaven! Despite the warmer weather, the majority of women of all ages still wear them.

Afterwards I took Emily to Shiba Koen again. Now the cherry blossom has finished it is a lot quieter, though there's still plenty to look at, with the plentiful azaleas about to bloom and the maples resplendent in their new foliage. I went to look around outside Zojoji temple and found a graveyard at the back. Japanese graves always have these bundles of engraved stakes.

After another al fresco feed on our favourite bench, I made her endure yet another trip to the supermarket. I wish I didn't have to take her as she always gets upset, and I always feel under pressure so can't browse to see what products are available. Though Japan is admirable where recycling is concerned, I get cross by their obsession with wrapping. If they could wean themselves off plastic it would do wonders for the environment. It doesn't seem possible to buy veg and fruit loose here. Even if you only want one of something it is wrapped. I suppose I can understand when it is something with edible skin, but not a vegetable that will be peeled.

12 April 08

Nick had been away overnight in Atami at a works party, and was feeling decidedly worse for wear. Such a pity, as Tracy and James had asked us to join them for lunch in Yoyogi park. So I left Nick to sleep the hangover off and set off with Emily to meet them at Harajuku. This time I decided to use the stairs rather than risk breaking the rules and taking the pram on the escalator, so I tested out my Japanese and asked a man to help me carry it up. Not sure that he understood what I said but I suppose he must have guessed what I wanted. The others were running a bit late, so I had plenty of time to take in the people who hang out at the park entrance at weekends. There were some punks and goths, a girl dressed head to toe in pink lace and a young guy advertising free hugs. I'm not sure of his motivation, but he got just as many from men as women.

Tracy and James had with them her sister, Stephanie, and Bettina also came along with baby Tim and her husband, Steve. The restaurant in Yoyogi park is actually rather good: no-smoking, with tables outside as well, and a decent menu at fair prices. Emily had been feeding indifferently since we got up, and also vomiting quite a lot of it back up, so as soon as we sat down I had to feed her before I could tuck into my mackerel 'set' (usually comprises the main dish plus rice, pickles and miso soup). We chewed the fat for a while; James and Steve were really nice guys and I'm sure that Nick will like them when they do eventually meet.


Before we headed for home, we strolled along to the shrine. As usual there were several weddings going on.

All of the babies were getting a bit fretful, so the three of us whizzed them around in a sort of pram waltz. All the same, Emily clearly needed feeding before I could risk going back on the Yamanote, so we popped along to the cafe for a quick drink before we made our goodbyes and left. A pleasant afternoon, only marred by Nick's absence.

When I got home our new sofa had been delivered. The apartment really does feel a lot more homely now that we have furniture!

11 April 08

At last, a decent day and a chance to get out. After lunch I took Emily to Hibiya park. Entering near the small lake, I stopped to admire a lone heron and many turtles sunning themselves, some piled on top of each other three-high like a reptilian orgy. I took advantage of Emily dropping off to eat an ice lolly and enjoy the warm sunshine. I think it's a great omission in the UK to overlook aloe vera as a foodstuff. I really liked the aloe lolly, made by much-sniggered-at Calpis. Very refreshing. It is also my favourite yogurt flavour.

As I sat, the area before me began to fill with young ladies variously equipped with dustpans, litter-pickers and brooms. There must have been about a hundred of them, organised in groups of five or six, and they dispersed to all corners of the park to collect what little detritus there was (generally, I think most people here are pretty good at using bins anyway). Litter patrols are a feature of Japanese society that I greatly approve of.

Emily seems suddenly closer to rolling over. On her back she bucks about so wildly sometimes that I'm sure she'll flip right over one of these days. She does appear to be making a definite attempt to turn her legs to one side, as I've been repeatedly demonstrating. She's also a lot more vocal lately. I'm trying to teach her vowel sounds, both English and Japanese. No luck yet, but she does watch my mouth intently as I shape my lips for each sound.

9 April 08

After the heavy rain yesterday that kept us indoors, I was determined to get out today, despite feeling tired after a 4am wake-up for the second day in a row. There was still one park within walking distance that I hadn't explored, so we set off westwards for Arisugawa.

The park is set in an area heavily populated by expats; I'd say that I saw more gaijin than Japanese while there. There are quite a few embassies in the vicinity. It's a pleasant, natural-feeling place to hang out for an hour or two: a wooded valley with a stream and a small lake at the bottom end.

I was chuffed to find that there were ducks and turtles in residence - two of my favourite creatures. There were also a few crows around: actually quite magnificent when seen up close, but one cocky bird tried to make off with my lunch.

7 April 08

The guys from IDC came late afternoon to measure up for the curtains (one to measure, one to translate!). I was worried that as it was nearly bath/bedtime, Emily would play up. Quite the opposite: she watched the man flicking his steel measuring tape around dexterously and suddenly started laughing. This was real full-on laughter, not just the little chuckles she's come out with so far. It was delightful.

6 April 08

How wonderful it was to finally sleep in a bed! Emily even played ball and slept until 6.30 - her first 7 hour sleep since she slept off her jetlag the night after we arrived. I felt positively human.

It was another lovely day of sunshine and light breeze; perfect for our trip to Shinjuku Gyoen park. Shinjuku is the archetypal image that most people have of Tokyo with tall buildings plastered in neon signage, though it looks fairly tame by day.


On the way we went to IDC and ordered some curtains for the living room. It's amazing how you can make major purchases so quickly when you have a fretful baby in tow: I scanned the rows of sample fabrics and had narrowed it down to a couple in ten minutes flat. Luckily, Nick agreed with my choice.

The park was nearby and we joined the ranks of cherry blossom viewers to file though the entrance. Unlike Ueno last weekend, this place was more than big enough to cope with the crowds and we were easily able to find a spot under some pine trees for our picnic. Shinjuku park is perhaps my favourite so far and hard to beat. Its size means that you should always be able to find some solitude (apart from a festival time like this), and it has many trees of great variety, as well as a string of pretty ponds. There is an English garden; also a French formal garden, a Chinese-style pavilion and a Japanese garden. Some cherry trees were now past their best, but rained down showers of pale pink petals whenever the breeze stirred them. The many neatly-clipped azalea bushes promised a fine display to come and the carefully-trained pine trees will provide year-round interest.


We had a fine position to people-watch; some were dressed very smartly indeed, others just chilling out. The group of picnickers next to us included a trans-sexual and a girl in legwarmers and 6-inch diamante-studded sandals. There is a strong trend in Tokyo for young women to wear long socks with just about every item of clothing, particularly hotpants and mini-skirts.

5 April 08

At last! Our furniture was delivered this morning. I now feel like a grown-up rather than a dossing student, with a nice bed to look forward to each night and proper table and chairs to eat at. Just the sofa to come next week and we're all set.

Nick popped out to get a bit of sushi for lunch, and came back with a large lacquer tray laden with about 20 pieces, mainly raw fish. At nearly £25, you can bet we ate it very slowly and savoured each mouthful. I can cope with raw tuna and salmon now, especially if sliced thinly - it does pretty much melt in the mouth. If I had to chew it, it would remind me that I was munching on flesh. As it is, I have to suppress the thought that I am eating something once alive.

We went out for the afternoon, and noticed a heavy police presence on the streets, though no obvious reason for it. There were the usual crowds around Shiba Koen, though the blossom there was waning. Drifts of fallen petals on the ground looked like a recent snowfall. I was reluctant to get my camera out in case I appeared to be a tourist - a kind of snobbism I suppose. I took Nick to the little park that Emily and I have been to a few times now. There is a corner there kitted out with some workout equipment and we both enjoyed having a go.

4 April 08

We set off late morning for our lunch date at Sharon's apartment in Azabu Juban. I was really pleased that she had asked us to join them, as there would be a couple of other new mums and babies there that we hadn't met before, as well as Tracy and Lottie. As I'd guessed, it was very spacious and luxurious, set in a quiet dead-end road and surrounded by mature trees; still, they have two incomes and I expect that she gets a decent housing allowance from the embassy as well.

Tracy arrived at the same time as us, and after a while Phillipa turned up with her 6-month old, Indigo. Phillipa was the reason for the party, as she was about to go back to work at the embassy (they are only allowed six months maternity leave - I wonder why, since back home they'd be entitled to a year?). Later, Bettina came along with her 2-week old, Tim, who seemed so tiny that I couldn't imagine that Emily had ever been that size. Although they all knew each other they made us feel very welcome, and I didn't feel awkward at all. Most of the talk was naturally about the various habits of our offspring: feeding, sleeping and nappies!

As I was cooking dinner, there was an earth tremor: the first I'd felt since the night we arrived. At its epicentre inland it was magnitude 5, but here in Tokyo it was only registered as a 2. I didn't panic when it started, but quickly turned off the gas and wedged open the front door in case we needed an escape route. I'll admit that my heart was in my mouth though.

3 April 08

It was a smashing day - sunny with a gentle breeze. I did a spot of sunbathing on the balcony, which catches the sun for several hours a day. I'm sure our neighbours wouldn't approve; most Japanese go to great lengths to avoid the sun as they strive to keep their skin as pale as possible. Women often carry umbrellas to keep off the sun's rays, and some wear long gloves in summer to protect their forearms. Unlike the UK, where moisturisers these days contain artificial tan, here they all include whitening agents. Given their seeming love of all things western, let's hope that they don't adopt our tanning habit and start contracting skin cancer.

After lunch I walked to Minato City Hall to collect my Alien Registration card, which I'm supposed to carry with me at all times. The card shows my nationality as Pandy: I did explain that it is only a village but the clerk assured me it was OK.

It was far too nice to go straight home so we went to the quiet little park beneath Tokyo Tower, and what is becoming our regular bench for alfresco breastfeeding.

As well as the cherry blossom we now have the delightful new leaves of the maple trees to enjoy, which really have just suddenly appeared in the last few days.

Near the bench a troop of sparrows was taking a dust bath in the children's sand pit. The only other people there were a handful of assorted vagrants, who seem harmless enough as they are mostly asleep. Mind you, it is a particularly Japanese habit: public napping seems the national pastime. In any given road you will find one or more cars pulled over and the driver taking a quick snooze. Given the hours they work it's not surprising that they try to get 40 winks whenever they can though.

On the way home I bumped into Sharon, who was taking Taylor out for a stroll. She lives quite near Nick's office. I'm pleased that she invited us for the party tomorrow, but worried that she lives somewhere really swanky. She's actually got caterers to do this bash. Mind you, I wouldn't want to cook for a party, however small and informal, with a baby to look after either.

I think that Britain should pass on the mantle of 'a nation of shopkeepers' to Japan, as there are so many small ventures here. There's a huge number of tiny restaurants and food outlets, and I've also noticed lots of barber shops. You wonder how on earth they manage to break even with so much competition. Handily, there are also many convenience stores (or 'kombini').

1 April 08

Emily seems to be waking earlier than ever: before 5am today. I hope it's not linked to daylight hours or it will get worse before it gets better!

We met Nick for lunch, and as it was such a clear day, afterwards we whizzed up in the express lift to the 24th floor of Izumi Garden Tower, where he works, to see the view. The vast city sprawls as far as the base of the mountains, with Fuji towering magnificently behind it all.

It seemed a pity to go straight home, so I took Emily to Shiba Koen park. Here we found the ubiquitous cherry blossom; I'll never tire of admiring it though. We walked along a road lined with trees gently dropping petals and it was like a flurry of snowflakes, or a shower of confetti. In the park is a temple, surrounded by ranks of stone statuettes about 18 inches high, dressed in red hats and aprons and many with little windmills or floral tributes.

Out on the main road there were some roadworks. Whenever there is any diversion of traffic or pedestrians, however minor, there will be one or more people directing around the obstruction with a fluorescent stick reminiscent of a Star Wars light sabre. Usually they are pensioners - at least it gets them out of the house and provides them with a small income. I wonder what the unemployment rate is in Japan?