19 July 08

Before I forget, I keep meaning to mention the lovely butterflies that flutter around the streets here. They are black with in sapphire blue, yellow and jade patterns, and are often the size of small birds, with very slow, lazy flaps.

It was 30C+, even in the shade, and we set out at the height of the sun for the BBQ at Odaiba, with Nick's departmental colleagues. Our chosen method of travel was the Urban Launch, a rather swish boat that makes the trip across from Shibaura to the reclaimed island.

The views on the 20 minute journey were superb: we could see the full expanse of buildings along the water's edge for miles, and lots of bird-like loading cranes. The boat passed under multi-layered Rainbow Bridge, which spans the bay for a couple of miles.

On disembarking we found an attractive waterfront with plenty of trees and artfully-arranged rusting anchors along the shore. There were a couple of small islands just offshore, also reclaimed, inhabited only by colonies of cormorants.

We walked along the bay as quickly as we could bear in the heat for 10 minutes or so to the designated BBQ area. It's possible to hire barbecues and tables and chairs, so you just bring your own provisions. The rest of the group had been there for a couple of hours (we were delayed by Emily's routine) so were already well-oiled. They had a kids paddling pool full of chilled water for the copious amounts of drink they'd brought. Unfortunately for me there wasn't any fish, only meat and veggies, so I didn't get to eat much.

The group of about 40 were all young and sure of themselves, as befits successful banking types. I got to meet Nick's very dynamic boss, Okazawa-san. He wasn't what I was expecting somehow, despite Nick's descriptions of him. Emily was very much the star of the show until a gaijin turned up with his adorable retriever, Max. That was fine, as she was hot and tired and being over-stimulated by all the attention. She was very keen to try our drinks and food. I enjoyed a can of an alcoholic grapefruit drink that packed a bit too much punch on such a hot day. One young guy said he wanted to marry Emily when she was 20 and he 47. Nick bridled a bit at that! I asked him if he was rich.

After the hire time had elapsed the others drifted away to carry on drinking, and Nick and I walked on further to see what else Odaiba had to offer. We found a building shaped like a ship, plus lots of boats moored up. There was a fab-looking water park that Emily will love in a year or two. A nice little cafe yielded fish and chips - not quite up to Whitby standards but very welcome as I was starving. We decided to take the elevated monorail back across to our side of the water as we were close to the station. It was a great ride with glorious views over the city and the bay. The track actually passes across Rainbow Bridge, with cars moving along right next to the carriage, before looping nearly 360 degrees beneath the bridge into Shibaura.

18 July 08

Emily wasn't so keen on chicken casserole second time around and it was quite a battle of wills to even get her to have half of it. However, when we went to meet Nick at lunchtime she was only too happy to join in with lunch by munching on sticks of carrot and cucumber, and sipping yogurt. She wasn't very taken with seaweed though!

Afterwards we went to Babies R Us at Kinshicho again, where I got some swimming nappies, as next week we hope to go to one of the temporary pools the children's halls set up in summer. At the store they'd got several toys for trying out, and Emily loved the bouncer. She looked very funny with her little legs dangling out the bottom but she soon got the hang of it and was jumping up and down with a big smile on her face.

It's tempting to get lots of things for her, but she will grow out of most of them so quickly, and we have limited storage at the flat for larger items like that.

Yet again she spent the whole train ride home shouting and squawking very noisily and attracting the attention of all in the carriage. It's hard to remember how annoying other people's kids were when I was childless, though in Japan she mostly draws indulgent smiles.

17 July 08

After our enjoyable visit to Shinjuku Gyoen at the weekend, I invited Geraldine, Bettina and Sam to join me there for a picnic. They are the only people I know who are stranded here in the heat and have not flown off home for a summer vacation (though Bettina goes next month for about four weeks - a real shame).

What a bad idea! It was really hot and humid and by the time I'd walked there from the station I was dripping. Emily and I sat on the picnic mat and waited for the others to arrive. It was close to 2 by the time they'd all turned up; we moved to the lake area and sat down under a tree with a view of the island. It seemed exactly the same temperature in the shade as it was under the sun and I had to employ a hand fan to stop us from overheating. The poor babies were very sweaty, as were we, and perhaps a bit grumpy as a result. I fed Emily with some cucumber, yogurt and watermelon to try to stave off the tears. We only lasted half an hour or so before we decided to call it a day and head for some respite and a cold drink.

It took a while to find a coffee shop with space for us (Starbucks, naturally!) and even then we had to sit outside and bask in the odd draught when the door opened and let out some cooled air. All in all not a great afternoon, but at least they all came, and bringing Geraldine and Bettina together closes another gap in my social circles. They are both French-speakers so I hope they will get on well with a few meetings.

16 July 08

Emily is now an omnivore! In fact, she attacked the pureed chicken casserole with relish, to my relief, as she has been feeding poorly for a while.

We went exploring in the afternoon, to check out a garden that we hadn't been to before, Rikugien. It's up on the north side of central Tokyo but quite quick to get to as it is on the Namboku line which is less than 10 minutes from home. Given that it was 30C I could have done without having to carry Emily and buggy up 3 flights of steps at the station. Accessibility is so piecemeal - there was a lift from the platform to the concourse but not from there to street level.

The garden was worth the effort though. It is traditional Japanese in style, with mature trees, a large central lake and lots of magnificent pine trees.

It has a bridge of two stone slabs onto the main island, and below it the water was almost seething with turtles.

All very photogenic. Emily had to endure a mosquito net as she got bitten by a huge mozzie, but luckily the bite didn't become enflamed and she seemed oblivious.

There were quite a few paths that I couldn't use because they had steps, including the one up to a mini-Fuji mound, which must have great views over the lake.

Anyway, I'd vowed to take Nick at the first opportunity, so I can check it out then. Rikugien is renowned for its autumn colours so we'll have to remember to return for the display.

Back home Emily ate all of her apple rice with gusto and enjoyed bashing the dish and spoon afterwards (something she can't usually do as she doesn't often finish her food).

13 July 08

Despite the searing heat and sweat-inducing humidity, we couldn't cower indoors under the aircon unit all day, so decided to go to Shinjuku Gyoen park.

First we had another gorgeous lunch at the Breton creperie by the Times Square roof garden.

Emily 'paddled' in the water feature; the water was as warm as her bath.

We'd only been to Shinjuku Gyoen once before, at Hanamai (cherry-blossom-viewing time), when it was heaving. Now it was really quiet and a lovely haven from the hordes of shoppers a few streets away.

We walked down to the string of small lakes and sat under a shelter for a while to take in the view. The main lake is traditional Japanese in style, with a low arched wooden bridge, immaculately-trained pine trees, carefully selected boulders and obligatory carp.

We spent an hour there before wending our way home. It is important to remember that Emily must be kept as cool as possible, so even if we can take the conditions we have to think of her.

10 July 08

After lunch we went to meet Momo and Michele over in Shibaura. I suggested that we have coffee at the place Nick and I spotted last weekend. It turned out to be a bar rather than a cafe, and a very nice one at that. An ideal place for chilling out by the waterfront, with lots of tables inside and out. I bet it has a good evening atmosphere too.

Momo is the second person this week to comment that Emily's cephalhaematoma bump seems to be going down, and I think I can see a difference but I'm trying not to get my hopes up.

After coffee we went over the road to the city-run kindergarten, where we were able to take the babies to the playroom. It seemed very pleasant and clean and the staff were super-helpful. Emily got to play with some different toys and watch the other, slightly older babies crawl and toddle. We were thinking about buying her some new toys as she seems bored with her old ones, but all I really need to do is take her to these playrooms regularly and use theirs. She spent most of an hour sitting up unaided, only toppling over once or twice.The other mothers all told Momo that she looked like an angel, and indeed she did look extra sweet today in her pink seersucker sundress and bloomers, with a bright smile to match.

At teatime, I was slightly alarmed to notice that she came out in a rash wherever the banana rice had got onto her skin. She didn't seem to have any problem with ingesting it but I didn't give her any more all the same. She's had banana before with no obvious reaction. I think I'll give it a few days then rub a piece of banana on her leg or something and see if her skin reacts again. It will be a shame if she can't have any more.

9 July 08

Emily and I went up to Nick's office to meet him for lunch, then afterwards we went on to the fortnightly Tokyo New Mums Group meeting, which was being held at a jidokan (children's hall) in nearby Akasaka. It seems that there are quite a few of these in each city ward. They usually have a play area for babies and toddlers, plus rooms for arts and crafts and sports. They are also free. This particular one was better than Ai-port, I felt, as it had a wider range of toys for all ages. Maybe they are donated by expats as they leave Tokyo.

On the way there I passed a Disneyesque place which I am reliably informed is a love hotel.

Geraldine, Helen and I had a quick drink before parting company. Akasaka has a bigger quota of coffee shops than anywhere else in Tokyo, I think. Kate would be happy with the number of Starbucks.

I still find it amusing when I buy Emily's nappies that displayed next to them is a range of diapers for dogs. At our local supermarket I find it mildly disturbing that the checkout ladies, who are nearly all about 60, wear a uniform of above the knee culottes with long socks. It looks plain wrong. I try to imagine Mum or Pam in such get-up. What is this Japanese love affair with socks?