6 October 08

With regret, it was time to return to Tokyo. The flight was after lunch, so we had time to kill after checking out. We drove anti-clockwise around the lake towards Eniwa-san.

The road goes behind the mountain and you can turn off to go and look at Lake Okotapu. It is inaccessible and there was only one place from which you could see it, but it looked very attractive, a lovely milky-blue colour and surrounded by densely-wooded slopes.

The road continues but suddenly runs out. We'd been warned, but on maps it appears to complete the circuit of Lake Shikotsuko, linking up to the highway at Bifu. There was even a new-looking sign saying it goes to Bifu, but 200 metres further on it petered out into a cart-track.

Emily got upset on the way to Chitose airport. Nick was struggling with finding Toyota Rentals round complicated criss-crossing roads, and had to contend with her bawling (drowning out the satnav) and me getting distressed too. After checking in we had a blow-out lunch; a huge omlette, delicious jacket potato and chunky chips. We had a great vantage point for watching planes landing and taking off, which Emily liked. On the plane she was very hard to amuse and kept getting upset. We arrived home as dusk fell, all feeling very weary.

5 October 08

Emily woke at 12 and 2, and again at 5am, the final time seeming too wakeful to get her back to sleep. The three of us got dressed and went for a walk down the path to the lake. There were quite a few people around even at 6am, perhaps not surprisingly for Japan. Emily kicked her legs and was shouting when she saw two dogs. We let her climb the wooden steps again, though she got her socks and trousers absolutely filthy. I can see that we will be going through a fair amount of legwear until she learns to walk! Across the red bridge we looked at the view from the vantage point of a small jetty; nearby were lots of swan and duck pedalos in a shabby state of repair.

Back at QKamura we had another big buffet breakfast. Emily crawled over to visit the other small children present, and Nick says that one little girl bowed to her! We got ourselves ready quickly afterwards and set off south-west. It was another bright day of blue sky and light clouds with a cool breeze. Our route took us clockwise around Lake Shikotsuko. Unfortunately there were too many trees between road and shore for us to get a clear view, but we got glimpses of Eniwa-san from time to time. Leaving the lake we turned down a valley with steep sides covered in deciduous trees. There were lots of rust and bronze leaves, rather than the flame-red of maple trees. The stony river bed we were following looked ideal habitat for bears. Near our destination we passed some apple orchards laden with scrumptious-looking red apples, and there were some grape vines too.

Sooner than expected we saw Use-san looming ahead. Beside it was its parasitic mini-volcano Showa-Shinzan, which suddenly rose up 400m in 1943-5 from flat fields.

Both had steaming fumeroles, indicating the huge power beneath the surface. Showa is very red in colour, Use-san has a crown of jagged rocks torn by forces beyond comprehension. It last blew in 1978, reshaping the top with a new crater.

We found our way to the cable car station and hopped aboard the next one bound for the upper station. The 5 minute trip whisked us 1300m up to a flat area below the serrated cone. Nick was disappointed that visitors can't scramble up the loose stones to the top. Instead we took the path going left, to a viewing platform with fine 180 degree views back to Shikotsuko and across to the coast. At first we thought that we were looking at the northernmost coast of Honshu, but realised after a while that it must be further down Hokkaido. There was plenty of high ground there; we hadn't realised there was much in the way of mountains in the south part of the island.

We changed our plans so that we could continue on the path around the crater rim. This involved descending 600 steps first: hard on the knees if not the lungs. There were lots of wild flowers softening the harsh blighted landscape, with its dead trees and steaming vents. There were also loads of dragonflies, though we couldn't see any water to attract them. We stopped at a shelter to change and feed Emily, then Mum turned back. We carried on so that we could get a better view of the new crater, and sight of the near-perfect cone of Yotei-san (Ezo-Fuji).

It was great to walk with hardly anyone else around, and on a high ridge with no tree cover to hide the views. I felt the happiest I've been in ages.

It was one hell of a slog back up the steps, but a nice way to get tired, if you know what I mean. We let Emily have a welcome break from the carrier to crawl on the grass (removing leaves, sticks and grass from her grasp, of course).

Back at the bottom of the ropeway we had a passable late lunch then set off home.

We'd ordered the more expensive 'push-the-boat-out' kaiseki (high cuisine) dinner for our last night. I'd been worrying about what delicacies we'd be served, but apart from some chicken, I got off lightly. The extra cost seemed to have gone into the presentation, with lots of effort going into the sculpting and decorating of individual ingredients.

I managed a whole prawn, and more sashimi. The savoury egg custard (chawan mushi) was very good. Nick and I tried some haskap, which seems to be some kind of plum liqueur, then sake, liberally poured into a wooden box until it overflows.

Back in Mum's room we compared haiku that we'd each composed:

Mine:

Hokkaido autumn

Bright sparks from Hell's anvil fly

Rowan leaves a-fire

Nick's:

Great mountains aflame

Fire burns within and without

Emotions erupt

Mum's:

Flaming bushes burn

High rocks heated by earth's fire

Reflect each other

4 October 08

Emily woke at 2am; I had to feed her but I fell asleep before she did as I was lying on the futon next to her. We were up at 6.15, to a blue sky dotted with fluffy white clouds. The leaves in the grounds outside were rustling in the breeze. Breakfast was good, as it was a buffet. I was impressed to see a label for each item with its fat and calorific content given. I ate loads, both Japanese and Western, and also managed to filch enough food for Emily to have for tea later, so that she wouldn't have to have a jar. Just outside the dining room window were some bird tables, and we watched the blue tits flutter to and fro, interspersed with a pair of shrikes. There was also a grey-coloured woodpecker at the base of a tree stump.

We drove for about an hour and a half to Noboribetsu Onsen, via a woodland road and then a road that hugs the flat coast, sometimes only a couple of hundred metres from the ocean. It reminded us of the Pacific Highway somewhat. There was no way of escaping if there should be a tsunami, so we wondered what drove so many people to live right by the sea - poverty, I suppose. There were magnificent views back to the dramatic volcanic scenery of the Shikotsuko-Toya Park, with Eniwa-san and Tarumae-san dominating.

The onsen resort was not as hideous as I was expecting from the guide book description. There were certainly lots of hotels, but they weren't as ugly as I'd been led to believe. The main objective for the day was Jigokudani (Hell Valley). It's impossible to adequately describe this natural amphitheatre of sulphurous steam, red rock walls and a perfect combination of green and autumnal trees. We were visiting at the optimum time for the display of vivid red, orange and gold hues. It was amazing how quiet it was there, for a Saturday in this season, and most of the few coachloads went only as far as the viewing platform for the obligatory photos.

We walked along a short path to view an intermittent geyser called the Iron Spring. It was surrounded by deposits of dark grey. As we peered in it sprang into life and bubbled ferociously.

We had to assume that since we were allowed so close to it, it never got more than a foot or two high. After a little woodland walk we went in search of lunch. On the way, Nick posed as a devil outside a shrine; there was a strong devil theme in the whole resort.

There weren't many eateries to choose from, and our choice proved poor. It's the first place I've been where the service has been less than desirable, and the cleanliness was questionable. Run by a middle-aged couple, the woman was close to being surly, and even Emily's antics failed to raise a smile.

Afterwards we drove on up the road a mile or so to view a small steaming peak (Mount Hiyori) with a small lake at its foot wreathed in vapour.

Again, it was surrounded by jewel-like leaf colour. We walked along a path through the trees, beside a hot stream that issues from another geyser. There was a place where you could sit with your feet in the bath-warm water flowing down the valley, which was very relaxing.

We followed the road on uphill a short distance and came to a viewing place looking out on Lake Kutarra.

This picturesque crater lake is ringed by steep, wooded cliffs several hundred feet high; it seems very tranquil and inaccessible, though we found a small jetty and visitor centre on its shores as we continued down the road. We took the faster and blissfully quiet expressway back to the hotel, arriving just as darkness fell.

Dinner was more challenging, but I managed to eat a crab leg, holding it by its claw, and a scallop, after I'd removed all the ucky-looking attachments. Though I do eat the odd bit of sashimi, I'm afraid I swirled my tuna and salmon briefly in my hotpot (making it delicious, rather than a chore!).

3 October 08

Not so bad: Emily was up at 5.30, just after dawn. The mountain appeared intermittently through layers of cloud, so we were grateful that we'd had a better day for our visit. Breakfast was good for me - omlette (fully-cooked through, thankfully) and grilled salmon. There was a serving of gigantic, winey grapes as well, that Emily partook of with relish. After eating, she entertained us with a stint on the bongo drums and guitar. It's a great place to be on a snow-bound day in winter, I bet, with all sorts of pastimes including Scrabble available, and the rotemburo to luxuriate in.

Emily also had her first experience of climbing stairs, and did very well, getting up to the fifth one on her initial attempt and further on subsequent goes. A pity that we don't have any at home for her to practise on. I shall have to seek out venues with steps that she can use wherever possible.

We set out as soon as possible for our 250km drive to Shikotsoko, and were soon down on the flat plain on the expressway. Behind, the long range of Daisetsuzan's spiky mountains were streaked with snow and made me wistful for another visit soon. We had to stop after Emily woke up and got irritable, then again within the hour so we could give her lunch. She was cross, and preferred to crawl rather than eat her jar of tasteless MSG-laden slop. Who can blame her? She got extremely grubby legs going up and down the floor of the Services, and seemed happy standing in the window waving at people coming and going in the car park.

Shikotsuko Onsen is very close to Chitose airport (the main one on Hokkaido), and our hotel, QKamura, nicely located in a lovely wooded area just above the lake. It felt luxurious after the lodge, with lots of obsequious young staff. Mum had a large twin room to herself and we had a tatami room again. We settled in then set straight out to explore. Close to the hotel, a steep path through the trees brought us down to the lake shore.

It was a really pleasant area with splendid views all around the vast lake. There was an old red cast-iron railway bridge across the river to the village, for pedestrians only these days. As we neared it we saw a plaque that said 'Wednesbury 1899'. Apparently the parts were made in the UK for a small railway.

There was the usual collection of shops selling tourist tat, and a few restaurants. We wondered into the large new visitor centre and found it to be a fantastic facility, with some displays in English too. Emily was glad to crawl around on the floor and try some more steps, and got excited about some fish in a tank. She was upset when we went outside as I unfortunately pinched her neck with the carrier fastening, but cheered up when a murder of crows flew over. Back across the bridge, in the gathering gloom of dusk, we stood on a little beach of pebbles to watch the wavelets lapping. Emily got to climb a wide, long set of wooden steps, stopping frequently to pick up leaves and twigs.

In the hotel, she succumbed quickly as she was exhausted. We'd been informed that the dining room had to be cleared by 8pm, so that dictated the time we could start eating, and I'd been anxious that I'd miss out if she didn't go down to sleep straight away. It was quite a good meal for me as it was mainly fish.

When Nick wasn't looking I cooked my raw scallop on my mini-stove, but managed to eat the slices of tuna sashimi with the aid of plenty of wasabi. At the end, fresh pineapple and apple was welcome. We also had some Japanese sweets: green tea jellies and sweet rice balls filled with red bean paste, and some that were probably made of sweet potato.

On our way out through the lobby we were waylaid. There was an evening activity for guests; this time it was paper-cutting. We had to cut out the shape of a blue-tit then stick it together to make it 3D. The mainly elderly participants enjoyed talking to Nick, and were impressed with my cutting speed and accuracy. A party of them had come by boat from Nagoya: 38 hours!

Later I went along to the communal baths. It was the first time I'd had to share with other women, and there were several in there. The shampoo and body wash were made of horse oil, according to Nick, and we wondered how exactly it was made. I felt a little self-conscious washing publically. When we returned to our room Emily startled us by sitting up suddenly but thankfully settled back down fairly quickly. It was pouring as we lay down on our futons, and carried on most of the night.

2 October 08

Not a great start: Emily was wide awake at 2.30am, babbling and trying to crawl around. It took over an hour to get her back to sleep, then she was up again at 6.30. Still, it was good to be up to appreciate the glorious sunny morning and the awesome view from our window of Asahidake's 2290m peak, covered in a fresh fall of snow. Light clouds were blowing over and away from the summit.


We were glad of the 7.30 breakfast time as we were impatient to be out and reveling in the clear air up there. There was no natto for breakfast, but instead a small bowl of fish roe. I'm afraid Nick had to eat mine as well. The custom up here, rather than crumble your seaweed over the rice, is to use it to make little makizushi rolls, with the fish eggs dabbed inside.

We wasted no time in getting out and walking up the road to the ropeway station for the 6 minute ride up to the ridge below the main peak. From the car we had superb vistas all round of the surrounding mountains and below us, the multi-coloured leaves. The mountainside was studded with trees in vivid shades of red (maple), orange (rowan) and yellow (birch). It seemed ideal landscape for bears and we scanned the ground in vain for sight of one lumbering along.


At the top, we realised just how unprepared we were for the bitter conditions,with a perishing wind and a good covering of snow that had iced over. Emily's upper body and head were well wrapped but she only had a pair of thin cotton leggings and ankle socks on.

The going was slippery on the ice-covered rocky path, making it difficult for Mum. The bushes on each side wore a dressing of pristine white, and we soon came to a small crest from which we saw the full might of the cone, with a huge gouge out of its north-west side and plumes of steam rising from several fumeroles at the base.


It was hard to appreciate it fully when Emily's poor little face was pinched with cold, and I began to worry about hypothermia. Thoughts of Kate as a baby, turning blue on Ben Nevis, inevitably came to mind. I felt it would be too much to do the full circular walk to the fumeroles, and Nick and I were bickering as I was going on about it so much, so the enjoyment of the setting was somewhat spoiled.

We compromised by agreeing to go as far as a shelter nearer to the vents and a small lake. Once safely inside, Emily promptly dropped off on the breast so we knew we had to stay put for a while. While Nick went to investigate the fumeroles I looked out at the snow, relishing the conditions after a streamy Tokyo summer, spotting a little creature that could be either a chipmunk or a pikka, endemic to Hokkaido. The habitat seemed so inhospitable for a small mammal.

As we descended in the cablecar, enjoying the fine scenery below, Asahidake was starting to cloud over, so we had been wise to go there as early as we did.


Crisis over, I felt revived by experiencing such a fantastic mountain, though inevitably regretful, as we would have loved to climb it if Emily was not with us. It would have required full trekking equipment though, including crampons. It sounded as though people who did attempt it had turned back due to strong winds further up. We had a hearty bowl of ramen each at the bottom, before going back to the lodge. Mum bought Emily a bear-warning bell - a very popular gift!

Straight away, we got into the car and drove half an hour to Tenninkyo Onsen, up a gorge valley with a wide pebbly river issuing from it. A short woodland walk along the river

brought us to a viewing place for the astounding and accurately-named Hagoromo (Feather Cloak) Falls, a series of waterfalls dropping down 250m.



The turning leaves on the cliff face enhanced its beauty. We carried on up the valley for some time, drinking in the lovely colours on the narrowing gorge walls while keeping a wary eye out for bears (last sighting April).


Driving back to base, the setting sun picked out the autumn hues though there was sadly no alpenglow as Asahidake was now totally covered in cloud. Dinner was filling, even without eating the meat dishes provided. A scallop encrusted with minced garlic was tasty, though somewhat meaty in texture. We finished with a slice of really delicious local melon. Afterwards Nick and I had a soak in the rotemburo together. It was incredibly relaxing floating in there, with the stars visible now and then through the clouds above.

1 October 08

Exactly a month after our trip with Nick's family, we were off on our travels again, this time to Hokkaido. I was rather flustered and flapping, trying to get us ready (well, mainly Emily) for the off. As it happened, we did cut it quite fine getting to Haneda airport, arriving at the gate just as the Air Do flight was boarding.

Emily had a nap at first, but was awake for an hour of the journey, and we found it hard to keep her occupied. Asahikawa was a small but pleasant airport, and we had a good lunch there before picking up our rental car nearby. Straight away we were worried about the satnav as there was a sign for Asahidake Onsen, our destination, pointing in a different direction. We stopped and asked for assistance and were advised to take another road. However, as we went along we found that we were on a parallel road to the recommended route and eventually joined it.

Autumn colour was only just starting, but we could see how amazing it would be. The orange and gold hues were really bright. The road to the resort was along a river valley with steep, wooded sides: a beautiful area. By now heavy rain had caught us up so as we climbed to the village cloud was hanging in the trees and we couldn't see the mountains around us. We made the drive in under an hour as the road was very quiet and in excellent condition; not what I'd expected at all. I'd imagined the Hokkaido roads to be akin to those in Ireland for some reason.

Lodge Nutapu Kaushipe is a wooden chalet with a steep-sided roof. Small piles of snow lined the road, and outside the lodge were great stacks of firewood. Inside we found that everything was made of rough-hewn wood, even including the light shades.

The counter was one long chunk of wood about 20 feet long. Mum was in Haru (Spring) room, and we were in Natsu (Summer). Instead of tatami, she had a pair of beds made of logs with tatami instead of mattresses: very quirky. Ours was a regular tatami-mat room, with a huge window looking in the direction of Asahidake mountain, though it was currently obscured by cloud.

We were keen to try the lodge's outdoor rotemburo, so Nick went first on a recce as we were a bit nervous. He soon came back urging us to give it a try.

I felt strangely self-conscious about baring all in front of Mum, but it was possible to avoid looking at each other much, and it was quite dark in there anyway. The bath was behind the building, overlooking a stream. We entered a cave-like area of jumbled boulders, passing three huge logs suspended on chains whose purpose was unclear. We poured water from the bath over ourselves using the wooden bowls provided, then got in as it was pretty chilly out there. The temperature was lovely - like a relaxing warm bath. The 'cave' opened out to the tumbling stream and trees opposite. We were reluctant to get out but slightly worried that someone else might come in as it was open to all residents.

I had trouble getting Emily off to sleep as she was very active, so I was late downstairs for the 6.30 dinner. Why on earth do they insist on serving evening meals so early here? There was nothing too challenging on the food front; a fair amount of meat, so I filled up on the tasty local potatoes that the owner had apparently been to collect from the valley earlier that day. We killed some time before bed by playing Pontoon (Mum won), then Nick and I tried out the indoor cedar-wood baths.

30 September 08

We had arranged to meet an old friend of Mum's, Toshiko, at Shinjuku. They used to meet up when Toshiko lived in South Wales. She was there before us, so we went straight over to Times Square to have lunch. I hope she was happy for me to suggest the venue - the Breton creperie that we have been to quite a few times. It sounded as though she rarely came into the city (she lives near Yokohama), so she didn't know anywhere to eat.

It was a bit drizzly, but we walked round to Shinjuku Gyoen afterwards and enjoyed the park, which was again very quiet. Crossing the lake via the wooden boardwalk, I spotted a flash of blue out of the corner of my eye and realised that it was a kingfisher that had darted down to the water from a low-hanging branch. It was captivating to see one in the middle of the city; I don't recall ever seeing one in the countryside. Of course, this was one day that I didn't have our camera with 10x zoom, and it was too far off to snap with Mum's camera. Typical.