Wednesday, 30 April 2008

30 April 08

I'd been trying to arrange to meet Sharon for a couple of weeks, and she called to ask if we'd like to go to Shiba Koen later.


It was really hot out, like the height of an English summer, and I wished the next few months here could be like this as it is the top end of my heat tolerance. I shall find it hard to force myself to go out much when it gets hotter and stickier, preferring to stay in with aircon on. We got to the park before Sharon arrived with Taylor, and I sat and watched a group of dog owners exercising their pooches. As usual the pets were dressed in some outlandish gear, and one dog had its ears and tail dyed yellow! Whatever next? At least they were being allowed to use their legs for once, though there were doggie prams in evidence nearby.


We sat on the grass for a while and exchanged notes on our babies' development. Taylor demonstrated that he has mastered rolling right over. He is 12 days older, so it can only be a matter of time. Sharon has not been able to establish a night routine yet so is still woken every three hours for feeding. Again, it made me realise how easy Emily is really. There was a class of schoolchildren nearby and they were group-skipping with about 20 kids on one rope. They managed a good 15 or more jumps in succession.


Afterwards we walked back via the little park beneath TokyoTower that I frequent, as Sharon hadn't noticed it before, then parted company. Such a shame that she will be back to work in June, as she is the only mum I know that lives in walking distance.

29 April 08

Another national holiday, this time Greenery Day, so Nick had a welcome day off work. We had decided to revisit Hamarikyu, and this time we walked there, though it was quite hot by the time we set off late morning.

On arrival we sat straight down in a sort of pine orchard for a picnic. In dappled shade beneath the trees we sat amid clover and violets, with a few butterflies putting in an appearance. Though there were quite a few fellow picnickers there was plenty of room to spread out, and despite the towering skyscrapers above, it was really pleasant and relaxing. Emily lay on the mat and ran her fingers through the grass while we tucked in.


After our meal, and a snack for Emily, we walked on around the salt-water lake and out to the bay-side path to look at the boats. Our route to the exit took us via the beds of peonies that were just past their best but still beautiful. There were many different colours, and some blooms with the diameter of dinner plates. They have a passing similarity with roses and a gentle scent.


As it was still quite early, we decided to risk walking on up to Ginza to pick up a few essentials at electronics megastore BIC Camera. For once we managed to get exactly what we needed, so we retained the feeling of relaxation gained earlier. On the way we passed a shop selling yukata, and as I'd been trying to find one for wearing around the flat we tried to get one. However, I hadn't realised that even with a yukata one normally wears an obi and some special ties. All I wanted was a cotton dressing gown type of thing really, so that was too complicated (and expensive). Shame, as it was rather pretty. There is a more informal, shorter sort of robe usually worn at onsen which would suit my needs better, so the search continues.

28 April 08

With trepidation, I took Emily for her 4 month immunisations. This time it was no fewer than three needles, poor thing. As before though, within a minute she was smiling again. Thank goodness there are no more until one year now, or we'll be bankrupt. I don't know how they can justify charging just under £400 for that.

Before the jabs, she was weighed and measured again. It must be due to the increased amounts of formula I've been giving her lately, but we knew she was 'chubbing up' nicely and the scales confirmed, as she weighed in at 6.56kg (14.5lbs). That puts her up nearly on the 50th centile. Lengthwise she remains on the 91st centile, at 65cm.

Sunday, 27 April 2008

27April 08

It was a fine day so we headed over to Yoyogi park. I wanted to show Nick the part where I'd been for a picnic on Tuesday as he hadn't been there yet, and I felt sure that he'd like the trees and big open spaces. When we hit Harajuku station we found ourselves in a seething mass of humanity. There were the usual freaks camped out on the bridge over the railway, but there was much more to come.

How different it was on a busy, sunny Sunday than our peaceful picnic earlier in the week. A total assault on the senses - well, sight and sound anyway. At the entrance to the park crowds were gathered around a gang of rockers, clad in leathers, with motorbikes lined up for appreciation. Music was blaring and some of them were dancing, seemingly oblivious to the groups of onlookers. One ultra-cool character with lots of tattoos was grooming his slicked-back hair a la Travolta in Grease.


Moving on into the park, we just had to ask for a photo of two rather scary girls decked out in sugar pink like Little Bo Peep. They must expect to have their pictures taken, in get up like that, but seemed to submit to the photo quite sullenly. This sort of garb is actually found fairly often around Tokyo; grown women seem to enjoy dressing up like dolls. All part of the infantalisation culture.



We found a tree-shaded spot and spread out our picnic sheet then laid Emily down with us, where she lay grinning up at the canopy of leaves overhead and kicking her bare legs happily. Near our pitch there was plenty of interest: badminton players, a group of jugglers, some women practising Bollywood dancing to a bongo accompaniment, a guy producing giant bubbles using a rope dipped in a bucket of soap.


After a while we took a walk on into the park and encountered more activities: a group of martial artists practising staff patterns, some sort of ceilidh, students playing a tag game among the trees. Throughout Yoyogi there were countless dogs of all shapes and sizes being walked or carried about. Most of them were wearing clothing of some kind, in varying degrees of ridiculousness.

We came across an enclosed area where they were allowed to go off the lead, and it was clearly a place where owners took their pets to be admired. At the entrance you could be forgiven for thinking it was a child's nursery due to the row of prams parked outside, but these were all for pooches not kiddies.


Stopping at a cafe to feed Emily we tried a black sesame ice cream. I love sesame anyway and this was delicious, though an unappetising grey colour. On our way back to Harajuku we heard the throb of techno music and spotted a sort of mini-rave going on in the trees of about 50 people. Nearby some women were hula-hooping to the bassline. Back near the exit we found another group of hula-hoopers swinging their hips, this time gaily-dressed westerners. The rockers' music had been cranked up so loud that I feared for Emily's eardrums, so we hurried by as hastily as the crowds allowed and made for home.

Tuesday, 22 April 2008

22 April 08

Tracy had invited the mums & babies circle to a picnic in Yoyogi park, and luckily the weather was on our side with blue skies and a gentle breeze. Unfortunately Sharon couldn't come as Taylor hadn't been sleeping at all well; neither could a lady called Sam, who I have yet to meet, and her little baby Ami. So, it was just Tracy, Bettina and me, plus our babies.

We all managed to make it to Harajuku at the same time, and walked round into a part of the park that I hadn't been to before. It was really pleasant, with lots of mature trees and plenty of benches or grass to sit on. As well as gorgeous azaleas everywhere, current interest is provided by pretty pink and white dogwood trees. After feeding our hungry children, we laid out our food. We'd all brought a contribution, and it was a very healthy, homemade picnic (apart from the lemon cake at the end). The babies behaved well, and we cooed over the three of them lying on the rug together.

Emily held Lottie's hand a few times, and I was worried that she'd try to 'bite' her to relieve her teething aches. She almost constantly has something in her mouth this last week or so, though I can't see any sign of redness on her gums yet.

Later, we strolled to the exit from where they were walking home. It was only mid-afternoon so I decided to explore a bit more before I left. At the centre of the park was an open space where people were playing frisbee, badminton and ball games. There were three fountains playing in a small lake, surrounded by numerous benches.

Onlookers were entertained by several ad hoc musicians strumming guitar or softly tapping on bongo drums. There seemed rather a lot of young gaijin chilling out here, all of whom were tall and thin - as are many of the foreigners I see in Tokyo.

Emily had been extremely good, but was starting to get upset through tiredness on the way home. When she's at the tipping point it doesn't take much to get her crying,and I can almost guarantee that we'll pass a noisy pachinko parlour just as its doors open. They must be triple-glazed to muffle the hideous cacophony of hundreds of slot machines all making their own sounds. It's quite an obsession for Japanese of all ages, so you'll find a pachinko in nearly every street or mall. Goodness knows what the energy toll on the planet is.

Sunday, 20 April 2008

20 April 08

Once Emily was fed and rested we got the train to Yokohama. It's a pleasant place in a sanitised super-Docklands sort of way, and an opportunity to see the bay. Being ravenous, on arrival we entered one of the huge buildings in search of lunch, and chanced upon a rather good, reasonable place that specialised in crab. Unlike most of the other eateries we'd looked at first it was quiet, so I was able to feed Emily in privacy. I had my first unagi (eel) since I got here, and Nick had a nicely presented sushi selection that included some of the house speciality. Emily had...milk.


Walking towards the bayside park, we passed a fairground beneath Landmark Tower, a soaring edifice that has about 70 floors.I look forward to a time when I have Emily as an excuse to go on the rides!
Spinning slowly above it all was a giant Ferris wheel that is purported to be bigger than the London Eye.


At the park we took in the views around the bay. It is industrialised but a nice place to catch a cool sea breeze when the oppressive summer heat comes, and the green space is large enough not to feel crowded. We'll have to get a kite. There was a very weird fruit sculpture lurking among the trees.
As ever, there were lots of spoilt dogs being carried around. One man was toting his husky on his shoulder! Just about every dog we saw was wearing some sort of clothing; one even had on a pair of pin-striped trousers.

On the return train trip, Emily attracted the attention of two bimbos in almost non-existent mini skirts. I'm not sure whether I'm being a prude, or jealous because I've never had good enough legs for short skirts, but I find the almost ubiquitous mini-skirts and hot-pants that teenagers and young women wear distasteful and trashy, especially in schoolgirls. Of course, I would have given my eye-teeth to be allowed to wear such raised hems as part of my uniform. Maybe Japanese girls yearn to wear knee-length A-line skirts!

With a certain amount of trepidation, I finally made it out for a jog before dinner. It was my first proper run since the week I found out I was pregnant (although I did continue at circuit training until month 6, which involved some running in the sports hall). Perhaps unsurprisingly, it went really well. I only did about 25 minutes, but was pleased that my heart and lungs still seemed in reasonable shape. Unfortunately my old calf strain came on towards the end, giving me concern for future outings, but I even managed to walk up to the 11th floor afterwards, arriving home with a very red face but having enjoyed my half hour of freedom.

When I got back, Nick pointed out a job advert in his paper that seemed almost tailor-made for me, being a payroll/accounts role at the British Council (apart from Japanese ability, that is - minor detail!). It only paid about 20K, but I was surprised a how wistful I felt about it. If I'd seen it later this year I probably would have looked into it further, but have no intention of working until Emily is at least a year old. Anyway, I'm not sure if I'd be able to get a work visa.

Tuesday, 15 April 2008

15 April 08

The warmest day of the year so far, though the light breeze was refreshingly cool. Emily and I went to meet Nick at lunchtime. I kitted her out in a very pretty dress and felt like a child playing at dressing up a doll.

Poor Nick: the timing of our meetings is never good for Emily's routine (such as it is) and she invariably starts crying.
This country must be the world's biggest buyer of flesh-coloured tights; Nora Batty would be in seventh heaven! Despite the warmer weather, the majority of women of all ages still wear them.

Afterwards I took Emily to Shiba Koen again. Now the cherry blossom has finished it is a lot quieter, though there's still plenty to look at, with the plentiful azaleas about to bloom and the maples resplendent in their new foliage. I went to look around outside Zojoji temple and found a graveyard at the back. Japanese graves always have these bundles of engraved stakes.


After another al fresco feed on our favourite bench, I made her endure yet another trip to the supermarket. I wish I didn't have to take her as she always gets upset, and I always feel under pressure so can't browse to see what products are available. Though Japan is admirable where recycling is concerned, I get cross by their obsession with wrapping. If they could wean themselves off plastic it would do wonders for the environment. It doesn't seem possible to buy veg and fruit loose here. Even if you only want one of something it is wrapped. I suppose I can understand when it is something with edible skin, but not a vegetable that will be peeled.