2 September 08

We were pleased to find a decent buffet breakfast on offer, with both Western and Japanese dishes. The citrus fruit salad was fantastic and we all tucked in. Emily joined in, sucking on a couple of cold chips and some salmon. I certainly took the all-you-can-eat ethos to heart and had so much that I hardly needed any lunch.

Switching on the box, we found that the airwaves were full of the resignation of Prime Minister Fukuda. He has only been in power for a year and is just not a strong enough character to represent Japan internationally, I feel. At the recent G8 summit in Hokkaido he appeared far too humble around the other leaders. The ultimate grey politician, compared to him John Major seems charismatic and colourful!

It was a bit grey and there was some drizzle in the air, as we made the short drive to Ryuzu (Dragon's Head) Falls. I had been looking forward to getting behind the wheel again after 6 months without a car and the automatic people carrier was really easy to handle, the roads lovely and quiet. When she saw the cascades of water tumbling over a 200m stretch of bedrock, Emily got really excited and kicked her legs a lot.

The surrounding area was deciduous woodland with a carpet of low bamboo. It is inhabited by deer, though we didn't manage to spot any. As it was approaching Emily's lunchtime, I suggested that Nick take us back to the hotel while the others continued walking up the waterside path, then he would return to collect them and take them for lunch in the town.

Emily and I hooked up with the others and we walked together to Kegon Falls. This was totally different to Ryuzu: a single long waterfall plummeting 97 metres. The stats said that there was currently 3 tonnes a second making the plunge - twice the usual level, so we picked a good time to see it. There was an elevator down through the rock to a cold, damp viewing area beset by spray.

There being quite a bit of afternoon left, we passed under a giant red torii and strolled along the south shore of the lake, admiring the stunning views of hazy blue hills all round the water.

There are so many that I wonder if some of them have ever felt the tread of human feet. Lots of opportunity for the amateur photographer. The nearby mountain, Nantai-san, shrugged off its cloudy mantle obligingly too.

There were several little jetties out into the lake, some with sad-looking swan pedalos.

It was hard to remember that this is a major tourist venue that sees millions of visitors a year, though most come at specific times like autumn leaf season. Even more pathetic were the dusty old souvenir shops further along away from town. I can't imagine how they make enough to survive.

At dinner, Nick pointed out an animal climbing a tree outside the window. It could have been a large cat, but something about its bushy tail and the way it scampered straight up the trunk made us wonder if it was a raccoon.

1 September 08

The others had gone off earlier on the train to Nikko, so that they could look round Toshogu and the shrine complex.


Emily and I were to follow later, once she’d had a rest and food. It felt quite an adventure setting off on my own with her in the baby rucksack carrier. I’d made a mistake reading the train timetable, so when I got to Asakusa I discovered that the fast train I had intended to take wasn’t running. Instead we had to ride on a slower one that seemed to have an interminable number of local stops. Emily wriggled and fidgeted most of the 2 ¾ hours and would not go off to sleep, so was quite upset by the time we arrived at Nikko.

Nick and Kate had gone off to pick up the people carrier that we were hiring. The road up to the lakeside resort of Chuzenji-ko was a tortuous series of switchbacks, but better than expected as it had two lanes and was one-way only. I’d had visions of stopping on every bend while buses navigated corners, or following a slow vehicle all the way up. From the rail station at 543 metres we ascended to our hotel at about 1200m, arriving shortly before dusk. It was a lot nicer than I’d expected, a huge hotel with nice tree-dotted lawns sloping down to the lake.

It was certainly out of season, as we were virtually the only diners that night. By now I am used to dining in a yukata when staying away, but it was still an odd sight, the five of us sitting there in the plain brown pyjama outfits provided, with more than a hint of Communism about them.

It seemed strange eating a five course French-inspired meal, but it was rather good. We were frustrated that once again the monitor would not work, so took it in turns to go back and forth to the room and check on Emily.

After dinner it was still really early so we walked off our food with a brief wander through the garden to the waters’ edge, and relished the delicious cool after the steaminess of the city. There was a slight sulphur smell hanging in the air from the small natural hot spring attached to the hotel.

31 August 08

Finally, late morning, we heard from the mountaineers. They were much later than expected, due to the fact that their ascent was slowed by the number of climbers making the trip. It must have been very frustrating for them as it took about 8 hours instead of the expected four, and meant that they missed sunrise too.

We took Pam to Shinjuku, where we lunched at the Breton creperie in Times Square, fast becoming a regular haunt. We were lucky to get a table outside, and it was just about comfortable as there was a light breeze. We'd at last found a place that had a high chair which seemed safe enough for Emily to sit in.

It was a relief to be able to eat together instead of taking turns, though we had to keep a close eye on her because it still wasn't a five-point harness. She seemed happy enough as long as we kept up a regular supply of stuff to play with and kept picking up the things she dropped repeatedly.

Replete, we walked round to Shinjuku Gyoen and strolled round the whole park in order to get Emily to have a nap. I am always surprised by how quiet it is there at the weekends (Hanami excepted, that is).

30 August 08

Nick helped Pam, Graham and Kate move their gear from the ryokan to our place. We had lunch at David's Deli nearby; I've often looked in as I passed by and wondered what it was like. Ridiculously, I was actually stressed out by the amount of choice on the menu as it all sounded so nice. The houmous pita and tabouleh salad were really good and I vowed to dine there more often.

We carried on to Rikugien garden in Komagome. This was my third visit and the showery conditions were the best so far for photographing the picturesque grounds.

Emily was in the borrowed back carrier, so we could explore all the paths.

There were lots of spiders hanging between the branches, and fungi nestling under the damp leaves. As always I got bitten really badly while everyone else got off lightly.

Back at home, Graham and Kate packed for their ascent of Mount Fuji to the accompaniment of heavy rain. Nick escorted them to the bus at Shinjuku; Pam and I had G&Ts and listened to the torrential rain, hoping they would have better weather for the climb. Once Nick got back he and I sallied forth to find a restaurant in our neighbourhood for our first night out together since Emily came on the scene. We dined very well and had several drinks. I hoped it would take his mind off not being able to do the trip with them, but we know it was too much of a risk with his recent PSVT episodes that seemed to be brought on by exertion.

29 August 08

Graham got his steam train fix when he, Pam and Kate went on the Chichibu railway. Nick had hoped to go too, but unfortunately he had an appointment with a cardiologist, who advised that the 24-hour ECG showed that the palpitations he has been experiencing are premature contractions (sounds like he's pregnant!) as well as the PSVT we knew about. The former could eventually lead to atrial fibrillations and is harder to treat. More food for thought.

Anyway, he did manage to catch up with them just before the Paleo Express left Nagatoro for the return trip, and enjoyed the ride. Afterwards they had a sunset walk around the Imperial Palace then ate somewhere round Yurakucho while a massive thunderstorm raged. I was at home and almost scared a few times as the thunderclaps were so deafening that it seemed like a fighter jet was passing directly overhead.

28 August 08

Nick's family visited Zojoji (unfortunately under wraps for renovation, but they enjoyed the aproned jizo statues) and then went up Tokyo Tower. I met them at Tamachi station and then we made our way to Harajuku, where we had lunch at the restaurant near Meiji Jingu. I'm sure it was the first time the waitress had been asked for a dish to be served without any rice accompaniment! Pam and Graham managed their chopsticks very well, and as she said, at least it means you eat more slowly.

Afterwards we walked through to the shrine, just as the heavens opened with a thunderclap. It somehow added to the serenity of the place to have water pouring in a curtain down from the eaves.

We finished the afternoon with a walk round to Yoyogi Park, where Graham snapped a leopard-printed butterfly and we watched a white heron stalking the little minnows in the fountains pool.

27 August 08

The long-awaited day of the Robinsons' arrival dawned, and for the first time in a week or so it was a bright, clear morning. Emily and I got the Narita Express from Shinagawa (nearly missing it due to a misunderstanding about the platform); a bit of a faff trying to juggle her while one-handedly folding the buggy, but I managed somehow.

Of course, their BA flight was late, by an hour, so I had more than enough time to try and get her to eat some lunch - difficult when she was tired and eating in her stroller with airport distractions all around. We'd given them no hint that I'd meet them, so I think/hope it was a genuine surprise for them to see us by the barrier. We got the next express back, and after a much-needed nap, Emily was soon charming them with her smiles and antics.

I escorted them to the ryokan in Gotanda: a basic place, but friendly enough, run by a pair of middle-aged men. They found it impossible trying to climb the carpeted stairs in the ubiquitous plastic slippers provided. Afterwards we came back to the apartment and they tried not to fall asleep, in an effort to beat the jetlag by staying up until Japan bedtime. Nick took them out later for a Korean-style meal, in what sounded like a very hectic and noisy restaurant.