29 March 08

Hanami time (cherry blossom viewing): it was a nice day and we decided to brave the crowds (and boy, were there crowds) and go to Ueno Park in north east Tokyo. The mass of people queuing to leave the station gave us prior warning of what we would find when we got into the park. The main avenue of trees was superb and it was understandable that so many thousands would want to stroll under them.

Everywhere on the ground, groups of merrymakers were picnicking on plastic sheeting put down on the dirt floor for the purpose. One middle-aged couple rather oddly had a large plastic doll sitting at their makeshift table. Homeless men were rummaging in the many rubbish collection points for recyclable items that they could sell.

We headed for the nearby lake in the hope of finding somewhere quieter to eat and feed Emily, but there was no respite from the crowds. Yet another very public breastfeeding session. Near our perch on a low wall, we spotted a couple of sumo wrestlers having a picnic as we tucked into okonomiyaki (shredded cabbage, onion, egg and batter cooked on a griddle). As usual, Emily attracted plenty of attention and admiring comments. They really do love her big eyes and pale complexion.

We moved on to Asakusa and the Sumida riverside, hoping to find somewhere we could take Emily out of the sling to lie and kick for a while, but had to settle for some steps beneath an elevated expressway looking out on the river and more sakura on the opposite bank. We were beneath the Asahi building, topped by a Philippe Starck creation, the Flamme d'Or (also known as the Golden Turd!).

I had been amused since I got to Tokyo by the pampered pooches that are often carried by their owners, and sometimes pushed in special pet-prams. Spotting a pair of these lazy creatures I couldn't resist asking if I could take a photo. No doubt the owner thought I was admiring her two precious toy dogs.