Opposite our seat was an elderly couple. The lady was bent with osteoporosis, typical of old women here (due to lack of calcium in the diet because milk products are not a part of the traditional Japanese diet). She had very yellow skin and was nearly toothless. Like most older women she was wearing trousers; it's very unusual to see a pensioner in a skirt here - quite the opposite of the UK. She was very taken with Emily as she had a grandchild the same age. Just as we got near to Nikko we realised that Emily had done a big poo; with only 10 minutes before we had to switch to another train for a short ride to our destination we had to change her nappy and clothes on the floor of the carriage.
We emerged from the station to find that the town is set among tree-clothed hills and mountains. It was a long uphill walk of about 2km to the hotel, with Nick carrying a very heavy rucksack and the buggy and various other bags to manage too. I noticed lots of souvenir shops for closer inspection later. Halfway to the hotel the road crosses the river Daiya and spanning it there is a famous and very photogenic red footbridge called Shinkyo ('divine bridge').
Our hotel, Nikko Pension Green Age, was a bit weird and had seen better days. The outside was mock-Tudor, and the lounge full of chintz and lace-covered chairs, with a huge TV the only nod to modernity. Surrounded by trees, it seemed very gloomy in there. Our room was very large by Japanese standards, with a separate ante-room equipped with microwave, fridge and hob. The twin beds were so large that we decided we'd sleep in one and Emily could have the other to lie on (lucky she still can't roll over or we wouldn't be able to do that).
We still had a couple of hours before it would be time for her bath so we went back out for a walk along the river.
Emily was chuckling like mad as she looked down at me from her vantage point being carried on Nick's chest. Half a mile from the hotel is a place called Ganman ga Fuchi abyss. It was quiet on the riverside footpath, and very pleasant to be in the countryside surrounded by trees and hills. 'Abyss' is perhaps a misnomer, but the river was certainly very powerful as it courses through the valley there.
It looks very clear and appears tinged with blue as it passes over the pale riverbed before being funnelled through water-polished rocks. Lining the path are dozens of jizo statues, most wearing the obligatory red hat and bib, with small offerings of coins and flowers in their laps.
We walked back along the main road and called in at a garden cafe for refreshments. An odd little man in a beret stopped to talk to us briefly and was very taken with Emily; he insisted on buying her a little packet of candy. Back at the hotel she was laughing a lot in the bath with Nick. She went down to sleep very easily, allowing us to go down for dinner on time. We were the only diners apart from a funny little English man of about 60 who didn't respond to my 'good evening' and sat very upright with his feet neatly together the whole meal.
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