22 December 08

Emily's birthday dawned at last, and we put up a birthday banner and sang 'Happy Birthday' to mark the occasion. I thought about her birth a few times, but was surprised not to feel more emotional.

It was a colder day, so she got to wear the cute and cosy all-in-one from Mum as we set off for a trip to Arashiyama, set in the hills a short train ride out of town. From the station there we walked towards the wide, shallow river spanned by a long, low bridge. On the shore there had been some kind of winter festival that was being cleared away, with some attractive paper lanterns still standing.

First stop was a visit to some monkeys that live on a wooded hill overlooking the town. It was a short but steep walk up to a viewing area where about 100 of the grey monkeys hang around to get treats from visitors to the park. We could mingle freely with them, and they came to within touching distance, though we were too nervous to buy a bag of snacks to feed them. There were several groups of them picking parasites from each other, and we saw a couple of tiny babies clinging to their mothers' bellies. If only Emily would hold onto me like that, instead of the other way around, my arms wouldn't get so tired!

Down in the town we searched for an ideal lunch venue, ending up in a place that specialised in Buddhist (ie. vegetarian) fare. I've never seen tofu prepared and cooked in so many different ways. It was really tasty, and even Nick was satisfied, though he had been lusting after meat. We carried on up the touristy street lined with decent giftshops and eateries, to a bamboo wood that was eerie but pleasing to the eye. At the end was a shrine where we said a joint prayer for eternal togetherness (mumbo-jumbo, but Nick seems to genuinely believe some of it and always makes an offering and prays at shrines).

After a nap for Emily in the warmth of the tourist centre

we thought we'd better turn back for the city; daylight was already seeping from the sky. Back in Kyoto we walked back to the hotel down the riverside path, stopping to watch a huge flock of seagulls pass overhead. We picked up a little cake on the way, and put a candle on it for Emily's tea.

She seemed really keen to have a go at using the spoon, so we let her have a go at extracting some yogurt from the pot, with limited success. Despite her afternoon nap she got really upset again when we tried to bath her, getting so worked up I thought she'd be sick. Her poor face was blotchy and her eyes bright red. Having calmed her down, when it came time to put her down on the futon she was wide awake. I had to stay with her for more than half an hour and settle her to sleep, while Nick went on down for dinner. Our last meal was massive,with lots more crab, and a whole bream each. Nick regretted having pre-ordered extra beef. I ate most of my dinner, but couldn't say I particularly enjoyed it. I don't mind Japanese food, but three days of nothing but is too much for me.