Emily was up at 6.45 again, but we'd had a great night's sleep. We found that it was now raining steadily but it didn't dampen my enthusiasm for the place as it still looked so peaceful. The drops were strung on birch branches like beads on a necklace.
After another good breakfast we packed and checked out. Mr Yanagidaira could not give us a lift back to the station and we were expecting an hourlong bus ride. However, his wife then told us that her brother was coming over and going our way so could take us. They suggested that he drop us off at Lake Suwa, just a few minutes up the line from Chino, so that we could make the most of the day.
While we waited for him we popped back over to the cultural centre. Ever since he'd seen it the first day, Nick had been hankering after a large stag beetle toy. He claimed it would be an unusual and educational present for Emily but we both knew it was for him really. Personally I find it very sinister ,with its huge pincers, and will be embarrassed if any of my friends see it. It's given me the creeps at night, when I can't help imagining it coming to life. It's a mystery why they were selling it: the shopkeeper admitted that though they had lots of displays on the subject, and a large selection of souvenir beetles, they could not be found this high up, only in the valleys below.
Our ride was now ready to leave, so we set off for the half an hour drive to Suwa. It turned out he was also an interesting character, being a TV producer with a specialisation in rally sport. He had been to the UK several times, and mentioned Aberystwyth in particular as a place he liked (he could even pronounce it - more than a lot of Brits)! Emily had been awake a long time and got rather upset by the time we arrived at the side of the lake. I had to play her some of my mobile ringtones to amuse her. Lake Suwa is a few miles across, and ringed with ugly settlements. Of course the dreary weather didn't do it any favours, though the tattered wisps of cloud rising from the encircling hills was rather atmospheric.
We first went to the station to drop off our bags, and dropped into Tully's for quick coffee and to feed Emily an early lunch. They can't get many cute blonde babies there, and the girls behind the counter gave her a little wooden train, which she loved, accompanied by many a 'choochoo'. Once replete, Emily fell asleep very quickly in the baby carrier as we walked along, in a most awkward position with her face pressed on the hard clasp. She broke into tears frequently and only napped for half an hour. Nick and I were amused to see some swan boats on the water; it seems they are a fixture on every Japanese lake.
Nearby was a rather pathetic small shrine, juxtaposed with an old Coke sign. An unnatural pairing.
Along the water's edge we found a geyser centre, and a timetable of eruptions (presumably meaning that it is a controlled release). Along with a small crowd we waited for the next allotted geyser to perform. It was quite impressive, the water rising at its height to about 25 feet, the steam going even higher. Apparently it used to be even better but all the hot spring resorts have syphoned off so much it has been depleted.
The train journey home was hard work. As she had already napped, Emily remained awake and I spent three hours constantly grappling with her; it was like handling an eel with convulsions. She did very well really, being confined for so long, but I was running out of ways to distract her long before we got back to Shinjuku. Needless to say, she was dead to the world come bedtime.
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