Sunday, 14 March 2010

12 March 2010

Mum, Emily and I took a cab to Shinagawa and boarded our shinkansen bound for Kyoto. In the lobby of Hotel Granvia we met up with Mum's old friend Noriko, who lives near the city. As it was lunchtime we set straight off to find something in the station complex. After I suggested unagi (eel), Noriko had to go to some lengths to ascertain where we might find some but eventually we did find an eel restaurant. Mum had a small dish of grilled eel on rice as she hadn't had it before so we weren't sure whether she would like it (she did); Noriko and I had hitsumabushi which is the same but you mix in wasabi and spring onion then pour on some green tea. Sounds odd but very tasty.




From there we rode in a taxi to Nijojo, a 'castle' on the north west side of the city centre. Emerging into warm sunshine we set off to explore the large historical complex. Emily loved it immediately as all the paths were of gravel. We soon came to an impressive old wooden gatehouse leading to Ninomaru palace.



The wooden building is fitted throughout with nightingale floors, which supposedly alert against intruders, and indeed they did give off a pleasant and constant squeaking as the many visitors ambled round. The rooms were decorated with delicate screen paintings featuring stylised tigers and leopards, cranes, bamboo and pines. The corridors were also decorated with some abstract patterns mainly of gold leaf that actually looked quite modern. No photos were allowed so I can't record for posterity.



Outside again, I tried to get Emily to nap in the carrier but she was very perky and said she didn't want to sleep so I decided to try and do without. We walked in the grounds for an hour or more, admiring the plum blossom; pink and white trees had been grafted together and it was odd to see both coloured flowers on the same branch.

Emily was being very cute, collecting lots of sticks.



We returned in a taxi back to the station, where we found a cafe in an underground mall and had coffee and delicious gateaux. Mindful that Emily hadn't slept, we hastily repaired to the nearby hotel and our 8th floor room, which turned out to have a fabulous view right over all the rail tracks. Shinkansen came in every few minutes so Emily was in seventh heaven, and she loved the large room with its thick carpet and wide, low window ledge. Noriko took her leave at six, and as I wanted Emily to eat more food we went straight back out to the same cafe for pizza and toasties. After a quick bath I put her to bed. Her cot had a duvet so I decided to let her try it instead of her usual grobag. Despite lack of nap and it being already 8 o'clock, she was very excited and restless. She kept sitting and standing up and messing about with the quilt. I got fed up waiting and lay down on my comfy bed. By the time she went off at nine I was almost asleep myself. I did not feel like going out but forced myself as Mum was there to watch over Emily.



I went for a wander around the modernistic and cavernous station, which was completed about ten years ago after much angst on the part of many city dwellers (apparently according to feng sui it is badly situated). At first I didn't like it much either, but after dark it developed a lot more character, as the many lines and shapes were lit up or cast shadows.



A series of outdoor escalators allows you to ride up to the roof garden on the 12th floor, though there is also a massive set of 200+ steps you can ascend, as I did. On my way back down I noticed a sign for 'Skyway' and decided to see where it led. I found that there were high-level walkways up in the roof of the 'cathedral'. I did a full circuit of the huge building at height and then thought I would like a little tipple before bed so I went in search of a glass of something.


Though there were plenty of restaurants there is a distinct lack of bars and I did not find any that I would feel comfortable in on my own. After much trudging and getting a bit lost in the bowels of the building, I came across a supermarket where I picked up a mini bottle of red wine and took it back to the stairway. For March, it was a very decent evening temperature so I wanted to be outside. There were a few people scattered up the steps, mainly courting couples. I wasn't sure about the alcohol situation so I kept my bottle out of sight and swigged it as I did a little people-watching. Approaching 10.30 I thought I had better relieve Mum so I made my way back to the Granvia. She was in bed and I was soon in mine too, though after my wine and accompanying snacks I could not sleep for some time and lay listening to the tannoy announcements from the platforms far below.

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