5 March 2011

For once the forecast was spot on as we got great weather for our day trip to Shimabara and its very active volcano cluster, Unzen-dake. We didn't linger long over our very poor breakfast and were soon away; it took a little over an hour to drive over the hills surrounding Nagasaki, and around the coast road. The bulk of the mountains loomed across the curve of the bay.

The final quarter hour of the drive ascended a narrow switchback road and then we took a toll route and climbed higher again. From a roadside panoramic spot we drank in stunning views over hundreds of islands, and panning round, over extensive lavaflows and up to Heisei Shinzan.

Just 20 years ago a 250 metre addition to the existing volcano was pushed up, accompanied by violent rending of the earth and massive lava outpourings. It was named after the current emperor's reign.

Though it was very cold in the shade, we found a sheltered and sunny spot and ate a picnic outside the ropeway station a little further on from the viewpoint. The gondola took us up a short but steep cable to a station planted on one of a ring of older lava stack hills ringing the central cone.

We spent more than an hour pottering around up there; there was even a scattering of snow in north-facing nooks and crannies. Nick found some amazing trees with wind-sculpted ice-crusts thawing in the sun.

On the return drive we stopped off further down the mountain to wander around the town of Unzen Spa, a sulphurous, steamy hot springs resort. We strolled around the pathways wending among the bubbling mudpools and steamy geysers. Several centuries ago a bunch of Christians were put to death in the boiling 'hells' - I could not imagine dying in such a gruesome and slow manner. Emily thought the persistent pong was very amusing at first, but you quickly become accustomed to the stench.

Back down at sea level we ended the day at a beach we'd spotted on the way. Unfortunately Emily had fallen asleep just before we pulled into the car park facing the sea. We took it in turns to stay in the car with her while the other strolled on the sand. By the time she woke the sun was just about to slip below the distant hills, so we only managed a quick ten minute walk on the beach before it became too dark.

In any case it was bitterly cold by then. We decided to eat somewhere on the way back to the hotel and in the end we dined rather well at a cheap Japanese family restaurant chain, Joyfull, in a small town near the beach. I suspect that they probably see foreigners there only once or twice a year, if that, judging by the amount of attention we got in the packed 200+ seater eatery. The waiting staff were ridiculously obsequious (to everyone, not just us), bowing low after delivering the food to the table.

By the time we got back to the hotel it was nearly 9pm. A child's yukata had been put out for Emily and she tried it on, though it was far too long. We let her play briefly and then it was time for her to sleep. Nick and I sat by the window and enjoyed the pretty night view.