12 July 2009

We spent the day in Edogawa ward: the 'downtown' area of Tokyo in the Edo period. It was only half an hour from Mita, so we ought to have explored it before, but we only just read about it in the guide book. It was really hot, though luckily a strong breeze was blowing along the river corridor. There is a high manmade embankment along the river, set up as a cycling route, with many sports grounds sandwiched between. Waterskiers and jetskiers were tearing up and down the river, providing further entertainment.

A little walk along the path brought us to an iris garden, which apparently has around 50,000 plants, but it was very hot there and I was too worried about us burning to enjoy those blooms which were still out. As it was past her mealtime we sat Emily on a bench under a shelter to eat. She refused the jar of food I'd brought for her and was generally a bit out of sorts, not even wanting to walk much after an hour of travel. We sought sanctuary in a restaurant nearby; it was busy and all heads turned as we entered. I don't think there are many foreigners to be seen in this part of the city as it is off the beaten tourist track. We had some very acceptable cold noodles, though the tempura with noodles looked better. Emily was happy to join in now, and was eating quite well with a fork.

We got back onto the path and walked northwards as Emily napped. Again I fretted, as she had a very red face because no wind was reaching her in the enclosed buggy. On the sport fields between us and the river some interesting sports were being played; we saw an all-women team frisbee game, played a bit like netball but with a disc. Next along was a lacrosse game in full swing. I thought that was just a game for English public schools.

Emily woke after only half an hour, as we paused for cold drinks while watching a ferry with about 30 on board being punted across to the other bank. We left the river and tried to find a park for her to play in. All we could come up with was the small garden of an old merchant's house where she loved the water feature and bamboo ('babboo') fence. Up the road we happened across a fine temple, Taishakuten, with beautiful wood carvings on the gates and interior buildings, and a pine whose incredibly long branches spread right across the front of the temple.

A large bronze urn with water gently splashing to the ground was naturally Emily's favourite. In one corner of the courtyard we were treated to a puppet show with dolls in old fashioned costume. The puppeteer used incredibly complicated moves with the strings to create a very life-like and comical effect.

My run in the evening was OK, considering the heat, which was tempered only by a light breeze. I wish there was scope for more than one a week as I really feel my lack of fitness more these days (especially when pushing a heavy stroller and Emily up some of the steep hills around here).