We got lucky with window seats, but unfortunately the wet and cloudy conditions prevented us from getting the most out of our vantage point; however, it did allow me to point out planes, trucks, radar and boats to Emily to keep her occupied while we waited to push away. She was a bit grouchy during the flight as she had a heavy cold and also had been up an hour early. Though on the verge of dropping off on the plane, as soon as we emerged into the terminal she was bright and chatty again. We looked out at a ring of volcanic peaks and wisps of geothermal steam and felt pleased with our choice of destination. The sky now cleared to blue, though it was still as chilly as Tokyo.
We ate a hasty lunch at the airport before making our way to the car rental place. As we set off southwards towards the city, Emily finally fell asleep, while we followed the edge of the bay down to Kagoshima. Out in the middle of the bay lurked Sakurajima, one of the world's most active volcanos, and as if to confirm its notoriety there was a substantial plume of smoke rising from near the top of one of its three craters. The sides of the cone were deeply grooved; around the base of the island were signs of habitation. It must be hell getting clothes dry there (indeed, the local forecasts include a map showing predicted ashfall and its direction).
On the northern side of the city (pop. 500,000) is a famous garden, Sengan-en, and we stopped off there. Inside we found that there was a chrysanthemum festival going on, with many artistic arrangements of the flower, the living plants carefully woven through supports into pretty displays; there was also a competition for bonsai chrysanthemums, growing on shapely rocks.
We found several citrus trees; not sure if the large fruit are grapefruits or pomelos. Goki was very interested in the little mikan (satsumas).
Moving on, several huge stone lanterns were strategically placed to mirror the shape of the volcano across the water.
Regrettably the wires and poles of an intervening railway spoiled many of the best views. Emily had great fun throwing gravel around before we continued exploring.
There was an attractive plantation of bamboo, and a lovely gingko tree glowing with its butter-yellow autumn hue next to a small shrine dedicated to cats. Wanting to stay and admire Sakurajima as it changed colour in the dying light, we stopped for someof the local speciality jambo : pounded rice balls on a stick, coated with sweet and sour sauce (seemed the same as the mitarashi dango we've had elsewhere).
As we got into the car the cotton-wool clouds were just becoming tinged with pink, and by the time we got into the city the sky was awash with shades of pink, peach and gold.
Our hotel was situated right by the water at the southern edge of the city centre, with ferries plying various short and long distance routes departing close by. We were really pleased with our room as it had three large beds and a great balcony that overlooked the bay and the volcano. Reception helpfully displays the next day's sunrise and sunset times, which we duly noted in order to set the alarm and check the dawn view. Like many hotels in the area, ours had a wedding 'chapel', where the bride and groom could exchange vows with Sakurajima looking on benificently.
As it was getting late we ventured forth in search of dinner. The hotel is quite a way out of town and there seemed to be scant choice of restaurants within walking distance. Round the corner we found a gothic-looking steak house, where we had to ring a doorbell next to the closed door.The lady who answered said that they were full, but handed Emily a huge kaki (Sharon fruit) which she seized joyfully. Nearby was Pizza Pasta Paradise which looked quite promising. The chef-cum-owner welcomed us so nicely that we decided to go in, especially as it was late to have Emily out. The inside was rather shabby and we were the only customers. Not for the first time, I found myself wondering how these little establishments survive. Actually, the food was perfectly passable, especially when washed down with a bottle of vino. There was a huge TV on, showing a Korean historical drama full of fighting and women and girls wailing. Emily was quite wide-eyed at all the blood-letting, fires and crying, so we told her that the men were dancing and the women shouting.
Once back in our room we got on with her usual routine, and while I gave her her milk and got her off the sleep in the cot, Nick and Pam went down to try out the hotel's spa. Pam relieved me from babysitting duty after a while and I went to join Nick in my swimming costume and robe. I hadn't been sure what to expect, but was still surprised to find the signs leading me down several flights of outdoor steps (rather chilly in only a thin, knee-length cotton robe) to two pools of geothermally-heated water, with steam drifting eerily across the surface in the cold night breeze. One pool was supposedly at 56C and the other 43C. I tried the hot one first but hastily withdrew my foot from the scalding water and retreated to the other, where Nick was. After some time at the lower temperature I was able to try again and could just about tolerate immersing my lower body, as long as my heart and pulse points remained cool. The water was full of minerals and my skin felt odd; almost greasy, in a nice way.
We were back in the room and a-bed by 10.20, but had an extremely disturbed night as Emily had such a terrible cold that she woke often coughing and unable to breath freely. After comforting her tears several times, around 1am I finally decided to bring her into bed, where she (and we) eventually slept more or less through until the alarm woke us at 6.20 for the sunrise.
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