31 July 2010

I had a terrible night. Emily woke around midnight and didn't go back off until 1.30. I think it was another spider nightmare, though the fact that it was her first night in Tom's toddler bed and it was also very warm contributed. She wanted to come into bed with me but it was only a single bed, and very high too, so that was impossible. Consequently, I felt like a zombie all morning and was not very good company; Emily was also grouchy, unsurprisingly.

As Sarah and Tim had a potential buyer coming round for a viewing, she and I took the kids for a short down the road to Littlehaven station for a while. We watched the level crossing gates close and sat on the platform for half an hour waving at the various trains going by and enjoying all things train related.

Afterwards we packed a picnic and drove over to Tilgate Park in Crawley. Emily refused to walk straight away so it was lucky that Sarah had brought a lightweight buggy. Nonetheless, she liked the look of the fabulous playground but got scared at the entrance to the admittedly high curly chute. We cut short exploring the playground in favour of a picnic; Emily barely ate anything then wanted to wander off across the grass. At that point I realised with horror that I had forgotten to log on at 9am to talk to Nick. I was frantic until Tim offered his mobile so I could at least text him. I don't want him to think that it is a case of 'out of sight, out of mind'.

Emily was clearly very tired as we walked over to the walled garden and nature park area. She got into the buggy and fell asleep almost instantly. It was a shame as she missed out on all the animals and birds in the various enclosures: sheep, cows, pigs, various fowl, alpacas and turtles. She woke blearily after half an hour but didn't want to get out, so we pushed her back round to the car park, stopping off to see the cows and sheep. She pointed to a young bull and said 'what's that under that cow'! I said something like 'think about when you have a bath with Daddy' and made a hasty exit.

We went back to Horsham to play for the rest of the day, but Emily was still far from her usual good-natured self and refused her tea. I gave her a hard time at first for being unadventurous, as it was something new to her that Tim had cooked, but eventually I capitulated and cooked her an egg. Still, I was glad to get her off to bed so I could relax and let my blood pressure settle after a trying day. Unfortunately, my trials were not quite over as she woke crying hard around 10pm, and refused to go back into bed on her own. I ended up sleeping with her on the sofa bed downstairs, which was actually quite comfortable. Thankfully we both had a reasonable night after that.

30 July 2010

Our first phase at Mum's was over and it was the day for our drive to Sarah's in Horsham. Emily stayed awake until Leigh Delamere services, with copious input from me pointing out many things of interest and singing along to a kids' CD. She was very grouchy as her bottom hurt. Soon after we carried on she fell asleep, and stayed that way until after Bracknell. Thankfully for my blood pressure, on waking she did not get upset for once, and showed much interest in the surroundings. A good thing too, since we were in heavy traffic and only creeping along until well after we joined the M25. I decided to turn off onto the A24 and we ended up having a very late picnic lunch beneath Box Hill before the final half hour to Horsham.

Tom was at nursery, so for a couple of hours Emily played with his toys. She was in the garden and stripped off completely within 10 minutes when she saw his sandbox. Indoors she finally produced a poo (four days again, despite the new regime of drinking a little milk twice a day). We went to collect Tom and they had a great time playing together. He graciously shared his toys; their mutual love of Thomas certainly helps. Emily settled easily into yet another strange bedroom without a peep, seemingly.

29 July 2010

We all piled into two cars and went for a walk up the Sugar Loaf. Mum and Pam stayed with Emily and Fern on the low ridge above the car park while Fiona and I went to the top with Graham and Kate (Fi carrying Charlie in a carrier). It was a changeable day again and though warm in sheltered places it was downright chilly on the peak. We had wonderful views all around, with the Wrekin, Malverns, Cotswolds, Beacons and Bristol Channel all clear.

After lunch our visitors departed and Mum, Fi and I took the kids to Bailey Park for a short play. I also popped into Argos and exchanged the Ready Bed for a new one as I was fed up with it deflating every night. Emily has been coming into bed with me during each night and I wondered if it was because it had gone flat, but despite the new fully-functioning bed she still ended up in with me when I retired that evening.

It was the first clear night so Mum and I went out stargazing before bed. I ended up lying on the lawn for a full hour and did not see one meteor, even though the Perseids annual shower is under way. It was very cold and damp out there, but I did relish being outside with just the sounds of the night for company.

28 July 2010

Pam, Graham and Kate arrived at lunchtime for their overnight visit and we had a very pleasant time, with lunch on the patio and the two girls being very sweet. Later Gail and Dave came for a couple of hours too, and we migrated from the garden to the house and back as the weather warmed up and cooled down on and off. Impetuously, I decided to get Nick's tent out of storage in the damp basement for an airing, and pitched it out in the back garden. Emily and Fern immediately claimed it as a new play venue and transferred their toys in there.

However, after they had retired it came into its own as Kate's accommodation for the night, there being no room at the inn, and it sounded as though it was a good alternative to the sofa.

Leaving Emily in Pam's care, Graham and I went for a pre-dinner run from the bottom of the lane. I amended my recent route to take in a little off-road section on the Offa's Dyke path, crossing the railway, which I thought would tickle Graham. I found the pace a bit quicker than my usual speed and was very tired afterwards and achy the next day.

27 July 2010

Maria and her two girls Alex, 6, and Rhianna, 4, came over to play in the morning. The visitors seemed rather subdued for a while in the unfamiliar surroundings before loosening up and playing with Fern and Emily. It was good to catch up with my old school friend, and as always I found her really easy to chat to.



After a late lunch Fi and I took the children to Raglan garden centre. We managed to steer them through to the outdoor section without them damaging any of the ornaments and toys on offer, and they had a very overpriced icecream each before playing in the small play area there.



I incurred Nick's wrath as I had arranged to Skype him but went out without talking to him. I should have asked Dad if I could but I felt a bit hesitant to boot him off his own PC when he was working on something. I wish I had as Nick was extremely cross and sent a strongly-worded email. Can't say I blame him as he must have been ever so disappointed.

25 July 2010

We went for a trip to somewhere I had never been before: Newport Wetlands Reserve. What a great destination it turned out to be. It is run by the RSPB and I was really pleased and surprised to find that entrance was free. So much so that I did not baulk at the 30 pounds or so I spent in the cafe and gift shop.

It was a bit cool and breezy when we arrived so we sat indoors at the visitor centre and had refreshments looking out onto a large pond surrounded by rushes. Nearby was a brilliant playground and we spent an hour there, with the sun making an appearance and lifting the temperature to mid-20s. Emily and Fern had a fantastic time.

The playground was amid about an acre of thistle plants that were in seed, so we had tremendous fun trying to catch the fluff as it drifted by on the welcome breeze. Then we walked on a few hundred metres through the wetlands to a slightly elevated point with a very old and small lighthouse. The path there afforded wonderful views across the Bristol Channel to Somerset.

Back at the cafe we loaded up on sandwiches and cake then rode home just in time to Skype Nick, who had returned from a much-needed weekend away to Matsushima.

After I got a very weary Emily off to bed I went for another run. The evening had cooled down by then and there was a strong breeze, but I still finished with a very red face.

24 July 2010

So much for the forecast improvement in weather, as it was cloudy all day and the temperatures at Mum's barely lifted above 16C. In the morning I took Emily into Abergavenny to meet my old school friend Jeannette. I was pleased to see the town centre buzzing with crowds and all the shops busy, as we hear so much about the decline of the town centre these days. It feels so odd to me that I grew up in this place and now am a stranger. We had a coffee at one of the many cafes now in the town, but Emily was jealous of me chatting and kept butting in. We nearly had a crisis when it was time to leave as Goki had mysteriously disappeared. Emily was close to meltdown when I finally found him at the other end of the larger coffee shop. Some other child must have spotted him and taken him away when she was absorbed in something else.

After lunch we drove into Pandy and parked outside the Lancaster Arms (once one of my haunts but now a B&B serving walkers on the Offa's Dyke footpath). We walked through the field to the river where the girls played happily with sticks and stones, then we climbed the steps to look at the railway line.

Emily wanted to walk across a couple of times though I felt a bit nervous as one way there is a bend in the track. We took up a position by the track side and waited for another train to come along. After about 10 minutes one appeared at the end of the straight stretch northwards and we moved behind the fence to see it go past. It was only two carriages long, but enough to thrill Emily, who said earnestly 'I love trains, Mummy'.

In the evening I drove back into town and picked up Jeannette. We checked out a few south Asian restaurants (I won't say Indian as they are often Bangladeshi or Pakistani). We made a very good choice as the place we settled for had a good ambience, delicious food and affable service. We ordered a vegetarian Thali each but if we had known how much food there would be we could have shared one really. Jeannette ended up taking a doggie bag home and I was so stuffed I couldn't sleep until 1am. Afterwards we popped into the Hen & Chicks and I found myself hoping (fruitlessly) that we would bump into someone from our school days as I would love to see how they have turned out. I think I am feeling a bit rootless and need to feel connected to somewhere, anywhere, even Abergavenny!

23 July 2010

Early mist began to clear so we continued with our plan to go to Brecon Beacons Mountain Centre. After some sustaining coffee and homemade cakes we walked 500 metres or so up through bracken and gorse to a low ridge that afforded good views across the valley to the three peaks of the range. Emily did well to walk all the way up without asking me to pick her up.

At the top we found a moorland pond, about 6 inches deep and with a soft muddy bottom. Emily and Fern's identical new wellies came in handy, but Emily's were soon breached after some heavy duty splashing.

Her trousers were soaked and had to come off too, swiftly followed by her top, so both of them ended up in nappy/knickers. Luckily the day had warmed up a little but the sun felt weak. We all paddled with them and helped make a stone castle in the middle. We must have been there the best part of an hour. Wonderful fun, and free too!

We dragged them away from their watery playground back to the centre for lunch, which was wholesome, hearty and reasonably priced. There is also a playroom in the restaurant, with ride-on tractors and a few other popular toys. Stopping in at the gift shop, one of our girls managed to deface a greetings card that was for sale (fancy putting novelty pens next to the card rack!) so we had to buy it. It was an interesting one made of recycled sheep poo, a resource which must be in plentiful supply in those parts. Both of the kids dropped off to sleep on the drive home; not surprising after all that activity and food. Fi was out in Abergavenny for the evening, and as Fern and Emily had had a late nap Mum and I had to entertain them until 9pm. They were extremely manic and we were both pooped after that.

22 July 2010

We had a warmer brighter day, until showers developed mid-afternoon. By the time we were all ready for the off it was 10.30; we drove to Wyevale Garden Centre on the outskirts of Hereford first. Passing quickly through the plants for sale as it filled me with longing and regret, the girls were entertained by the extensive fish for sale and then by the toy area. I could easily have browsed for an hour or two if I didn't have Emily, as it is a veritable Aladdin's cave. We ate outside at the restaurant there and I was pleased as for once Emily ate most of her meal so I didn't feel like I had wasted money. The girls enjoyed a Thomas ride on the way out.

Half an hour along the road to Kington brought us to the small breeds farm and owl sanctuary. I sat in the back between the two child seats while Mum drove as I was determined to prevent Emily from dropping off and missing out on the visit. It is a great venue for young children, with many miniature breeds of goats, sheep and ponies as well as chickens, pigs, donkeys and even reindeer!

Visitors are allowed to go in some enclosures and Mum and I took the kids in one, but a goat got into the outer pen and when Mum tried to herd it back in the gate it butted her a bit. We had to lift the girls out and climb over the fence as it would otherwise have escaped when we opened the outer gate. One of the pygmy goat kids started to nibble Emily's top when she stood a bit too close to the wire.

It came on to rain and we took shelter against some bird cages that housed beautiful pheasants and also some red squirrels. After a snack the rain stopped and we went to feed the ducks, then stopped off to see the rabbits, guinea pigs, chipmunks and mice. Emily was a bit grouchy with tiredness and also as she was due for a poo; we had been there two hours and quickly looked around the owls before leaving. Again, I sat in the back to keep Emily awake, though Fern dropped off instead. Emily enjoyed stopping off to shop at Tesco's. How on earth can they sell so cheaply? I can't help but convert the prices back into Yen and feel sick at how much I am paying for some items.

I managed to get her back home without a nap and we went for a wander around the garden with the girls wearing their newly-acquired wellies. As we went back to the house Emily got very upset and I realised that she was spitting out some sort of orange berry. She was very distressed and I felt really worried as I had seen some cuckoo pint in berry and that seemed the most likely candidiate, which I knew to be poisonous. I was annoyed with her too as I thought we had drilled her sufficiently that she must not eat berries unless we told her they were OK. We got her to drink a little milk but she was still crying so I brushed her teeth to help clear the taste from her mouth, then convinced her to eat her tea, which she duly did with no more fuss. I prayed she had not swallowed any, and the episode seemed to be over and hopefully a lesson had been learned too.

Once she was safely settled into bed I donned running gear and went out for my first exercise since Fuji, nearly a fortnight ago. I only ran for half an hour, along from the bottom of the lane to the Skirrid Inn and then round the back road to the Pandy Inn. It was about 15C and pouring with rain, so I enjoyed it immensely.

21 July 2010

Another showery day with the gauge barely hitting 18C even when the sun was out.

Fi and I took the kids out in the morning regardless, as we couldn't face staying at home any longer. Our intention was to go to Grwyne Fawr reservoir, but as I was driving up the valley I forgot to turn off at Bryn Arw and we decided to keep going and visit Llantony Priory instead. It turned out to be a good plan as the girls had lots of fun wandering around the ruins and looking at all the animals in nearby fields.

It suited us too, as at least there is a coffee shop there. Emily picked up a brightly-coloured butterfly (or perhaps moth) and also prised a snail off its stony haven.

We strolled down the road to the small river and played Pooh sticks on the bridge before crossing to the rocky 'beach' on the other side where they were contented throwing stones into the babbling brook.

After lunch Mum joined us and we drove to Rowlstone across the valley, where there is a farm that makes and sells icecream and also has many animals and a playground. Emily managed to drop off on the short drive and missed out on the whole thing, waking just as the others returned to the car. She and Fern had lots of fun back at home anyway but I had to keep her up fairly late due to her nap, which didn't suit me very well as I seem to be really tired every evening here.

20 July 2010

We woke to a low mist hanging around the hill and didn't really see the sun all day, with rain finally setting in at lunchtime. We had already decided to have a quiet day at home so Emily and Fern played all day, and must have used just about every toy and read every book. At the end of the day we remarked on how they had not had one fight all that time.

19 July 2010

I went up to the bank to fix the currency mistake then back to John & Ann's to load up the car and we set off with Mum in her car on the long drive west to Pandy.

We stopped after an hour, at Baldock services, and ended up staying 45 minutes while Emily played on the play equipment. Though it was less than an hour from there to Bletchley we pulled in there at Dobbies garden centre, which is really a huge emporium selling many other things as well as plants. Emily was very interested in the toys and the wind chimes, but we got her to come and have lunch. Only the lure of a new miniature wheelbarrow could extract her from the wendy house in the restaurant.

She fell asleep soon after we got on the road and I drove all the way to Tewkesbury before she woke up again. Unfortunately she worked herself up into a state on waking so I had to pull off the M50 and Mum drove the rest while I tried to calm her down in the back. We made it to Mum's around 4.30, to find Fi, Fern and Charlie already settled in and tea cooking. The girls wasted no time in pulling out all of their toys and books and were not in bed until 8.30, by which time I was ready for bed too.

18 July 2010

Mum gave Emily and me a lift to Stansted, from where we took the Express train to Liverpool Street. The carriage was in a terrible condition: the carpet grubby with trodden-in food and the windows filthy. After the near-pristine trains of Japan it was a bit of a shock and I began to fall out of love with being home for the second time (the first being arrival at Heathrow). The ride itself was interesting for Emily, with animals, boats and trains to see.

I put her in the carrier on arrival and it was a good thing too, as I soon discovered that due to engineering work there was no direct way to get round to Regent's Park. We followed the diverted crowds onto the Central Line. It was very hot in there and I sweated all the way to Bond Street then changed to the Jubilee Line to get to Baker Street, with Emily lolling about asleep behind me. We emerged into fresher air and walked on into the park. There were many nationalities walking there and I found myself searching out people who looked Japanese and trying to hear them speak. It seems odd to miss hearing a language I can barely understand. I almost felt inclined to go up and address them but I know that after their initial surprise they would assume I was capable of conversation and it would lead to embarrassment.

Emily woke just before Lorraine arrived. We walked on through the park to the zoo. It was further than I remembered and I ended up carrying her most of the way. She was a bit nervous of yet another of Mummy's friends but soon warmed to Lorraine. At the zoo Emily didn't seem very enthused so we had a quick look at the gorillas then made for the picnic area. Once she had some grub inside her she perked up a bit though she was still not on best form all day. We saw the penguins swimming round in their pool, competing for the fish with a pair of herons. The tigers and lions were both lying around in the heat as it had got a lot hotter by then. We had an icecream by the llamas

then went through a tunnel to the outer circle, where we saw giraffes, okapis, zebra, otters and meerkats.

Three hours had passed and we had barely covered half of the zoo but we had to begin the long trek home so it was time to depart.

To avoid another long walk I chose to take the bus back to Baker Street, so we parted from Lorraine and got on board. Soon we got stuck in traffic and it was extremely hot by now so Emily and I were both grumpy. The tube ride didn't help my mood as the air conditioning was far too feeble to cope with high summer. We managed to get the Stansted Express at 5pm but I so fed up with public transport that I called and asked Mum to pick us up. While we were waiting for her at the airport I realised a bus was leaving bound for Braintree and felt guilty dragging her over there.

Sarah, Tim and Tom popped by before going home to Horsham and Emily and Tom had fun on the trampoline Radley and Hayden had set up in Grandma & Grandad's garden. I went in and had a look around the house, which John has been gradually sorting through. It felt almost like a stranger's home and I found it hard to revive many memories attached to it.

17 July 2010

Another sunny but blowy day. Emily and I went over to Sawbridgeworth to visit Julia and meet the twins, Gracie and Charlie, who are now 6 months old. Emily was a bit shy at first, especially of Ray and Julia's brother, but warmed up when she found that the twins had a set of Thomas books, and more so when the custard creams came out. They are having extensive work done to enlarge the house so were in a state of disarray, but it will be fantastic when it is done. I just couldn't get over the amazement of Julia having not one but two children, after so many years of trying.

We could not stay long and soon had to say our goodbyes. Hopefully it will not be 3 years before we meet again.

With Emily asleep in the car again, we went back to Braintree where we collected Grandma and Mum and had lunch at Marks Hall, the large country estate over near Coggeshall. Emily did not eat very well but enjoyed feeding the ducks and picking up tiny windfall apples. It would have been nice to linger there but we needed to get back to the nursing home for Grandma's birthday party at 3pm.

The whole immediate family came along, plus Auntie Sheila, Auntie Una and Uncle Stan. Fiona and family came for the afternoon, and Sarah, Tim and Tom arrived after a tiresome journey from Sussex.

Emily had a whale of a time with the other kids, including Andrew's two who were really good with the toddlers. Charlie got lots of cuddles too. I made a faux pas when I asked Sarah if there was something that she wanted to tell me; it turned out that her dress was just puffy at the waist but I felt mortified for making such a gaff. Grandma was rather tearful, as she had predicted she would be, but who could blame her? Trudie's friend had made a wonderful cake and Ann and Trudie had put on a good spread, though there was so much that a lot ended up being passed around the staff and residents later. I think we all dreaded the moment we had to leave Grandma on her own, so we all left together while the staff settled her in the lounge.

Though stuffed we all sat down to a Chinese takeaway in the evening. Emily only picked and was desperate to carry on playing with Fern and the boys. Again, as she had had a nap, it was quite a late night for her, and I wasn't far behind.

16 July 2010

Emily woke at about 4am, but I took her into bed with me and then she went through to 6.30.

We walked up to Tesco with Mum, where I marvelled at the cheapness of the clothes and the special offers (eight tins of baked beans for the same price I pay for one at home). I intended to buy a pair of trousers for Emily and ended up getting several items of clothing and some toys. We had a coffee at a rather convivial cafe in the square and then went to the solicitors as I had to apply for the money that Grandad bequeathed to me. I changed half of the Yen I had brought at the bank and failed to notice that the cashier missed off a nought, crediting my account with only a tenth of the correct amount.

We picked up Mum's car and then went to get Grandma from the home. Emily nearly fell asleep on the short drive to Tiptree but I managed to stave off the nap and the four of us went into the Jam factory restaurant for lunch. It was quite an occasion, four generations sitting down together.

Grandma wasn't too bad though she repeated questions many times and was not sure from one moment to the next whether Grandad was still alive. At one point she asked Mum outright if he was still alive and after that she seemed to take in that he was no longer with us for some time.

When we finished we carried on to Maldon; Emily could no longer resist the sandman and even after we parked at the waterfront car park she stayed asleep for another hour. I sat and admired the picturesque view while Mum and Grandma went off for a cuppa. On waking, Emily was upset yet again, but I carried her to the nearby pirate boat playground and eventually she relented and was very cheerful after that. There was a group of about eight teenagers, boys and girls, hanging around on the big play structure and Emily was nervous of them; I surprised myself by saying 'excuse me but you're scaring my child'. They didn't look too rough, which is perhaps how I mustered courage to speak. Anyway, it paid off as they looked a bit sheepish and obligingly moved off elsewhere to muck about. Lots of other small children then drifted over so had maybe been put off before. Emily played very happily there until it was time to leave.

We dropped Grandma off and she was very worried about the forthcoming birthday party, mainly fearful that she would cry a lot. Emily and I walked back from the home through town, by way of Sainsburys, where yet again I saw many groceries that I wanted to buy. Radley and Hayden had returned from school now and took Emily under their wings. She had a fantastic time playing in their rooms, as Hayden still had many Thomas books and toys. After eating dinner with the adults again she finally went to bed at nine and I followed not long after.

15 July 2010

Emily woke at 4.30 and we went downstairs to play. We had our first breakfast at 5am and then another at eight, and I reacquainted myself with the pleasure of thinly-sliced wholemeal bread; Emily discovered Cheerios. Fern went off to nursery, but before she went the two girls had a great time playing together and seemed to get on very well.

After a very reviving shower we walked to a nearby park with Emily and Charlie. It was really pleasant, with a lake and a fantastic playground. It was sunny but not overhot and a perfect summer day. After lunch, we loaded up Mum's car and it was time to drive to Braintree. Emily soon nodded off and slept most of the way, though she again got very upset when she woke and I was very relieved to finally pull up at John and Ann's. She was happy exploring the three joined Gill gardens at Fairfield Road, and loved running around after Gunner the spaniel. She was late to bed after her long, late nap, so we all ate together. She liked her new Ready Bed enormously, though unfortunately the brand new inflatable bed with built in bedding deflated during the night.

14 July 2010

Departure day finally dawned. Emily and I rode the bus to Tamachi then I put her in the carrier and we took the Yamanote to Tokyo station. We had to hang around quite a while for our Narita Express train to the airport as I had allowed too much time, but it was better than being in a flap. Emily was very good on the train and luckily we had a spare seat next to us so could spread out.

I had sent our main luggage ahead via courier service so when we got there we first picked that up then headed for the Virgin check-in. I was hoping that as I was travelling on my own with a toddler I would be spared the queue but alas, no. We waited for nearly half an hour but Emily was very patient. Once unfettered by bags we went to the observation area to look at a few planes take off and land, and saw our plane parked below us.

I watched a huge A380 lumber skyward at what seemed snail's pace and once more marvelled at aerodynamics.

We went through security and immigration fairly quickly, though I was fed up that I got to the immigration counter only to be reminded that I needed to fill in a re-entrant card for residents. I wish they would put up notices to that effect before you start queuing. Fortunately the officer let me go back to the desk without lining up again. We spoke to Nick briefly then it was almost a dash to get on board as everyone else was already on the plane.

I was glad that I had booked a child seat for Emily as it was much safer and also more comfortable for her, being much like a kids' car seat. I had asked for a window and aisle pair of seats so we could get in and out without disturbing anyone else. We watched all of the kids TV programmes before and after the first meal was served but there weren't that many geared up to smaller children, just Mickey Mouse and a couple of other short animations. After about 4 hours of flight Emily fell asleep, but only for about 40 minutes. We walked about now and again but she didn't seem keen to hang around near the galley like she did last time and kept asking to return to the seats. The last 5 hours really dragged. We had exhausted all entertainment options including audio CD and games, and even resorted to The Simpsons. She was very grumpy by the time we crossed the Dutch coast and became really tearful while we were in the inevitable holding pattern for Heathrow.

I had to carry Emily in my arms a long way from the plane to customs. She had dark circles under her eyes by then and was quite lacklustre, though she perked up a bit in the baggage hall. My mood was not enhanced when I could not work out which carousel to wait by, and the staff all looked surly and unhelpful so I waited at the wrong one for 10 minutes before walking down to the far end to find our luggage going round and round. I do worry that so many foreigners must form terrible impressions of Britain as soon as they land.

At last we emerged into Arrivals and saw Mum's face. Fi was also there with Charlie, and it was lovely to finally see him in the flesh. He really is a cutie. We transferred to Fi's car and she soon had us back to her place. The new house is so much bigger than School Terrace and with a 50 foot garden. Emily had fallen asleep in the car on the way and I got her inside and into bed easily enough. I managed to stay up until 9pm when a glass of wine with dinner finished me off and I turned in, having remained awake for exactly 24 hours. I made the mistake of trying to move Emily into the big bed with me and she became hysterical. Nothing would calm her and in the end I lost it a bit and fled the room. Fi and Mum took over and took her downstairs for a while then returned her back to the bedroom after I had dropped off. Later in the night she cried out and I ended up sleeping on the floor with her, though nothing would have kept me from slumber by then.

11 July 2010

As it was our last chance for a family day together for a month, we went to Zushi. After a night's sleep I felt more or less recovered from Fuji, and surprisingly my legs didn't really ache all that much. It was cloudy, though naturally for Japanese summer it was still very muggy and high 20s. We arrived late morning and walked straight to the beach where we wasted no time in getting our costumes on and going in the sea. It is very shallow there and the water was almost bath-warm for quite a way out. The beach was busy, with lots of toned young men, bikini-clad totty, and many tattoos on show (normally a rarity in Japan thanks to their association with the criminal class).

Emily spent quite a while in the sea with one or other of us.

Just as we sat down to eat our picnic it began to rain so we had to eat under our sole umbrella. At least that kept us safe from the unwelcome attentions of the black kites gliding overhead; we saw several stooping dives to relieve unsuspecting victims of their food. Emily got upset, probably because yet again she was overdue for a poo, and we decided to call it a day earlier than planned. By the station, Starbucks shares its concession with a branch of Chaya, so we were able to combine good coffee with one of their mouthwatering cake confections each before riding back to Tokyo.

9/10 July 2010

I set off for my assault on Fuji-san with a great deal of trepidation mixed with anticipation. Mid-afternoon, our party of 6 gathered at the bus ticket ofice in Shinjuku: me, Jo and Oli, Renate and her friends Ulla and Keysha. Nervous excitement made me clumsy and verbose; I slipped and fell twice on the wet pavements, and was rabbiting away continously as we sat in the waiting room.


It had been raining lightly most of the day and as our two hour bus ride took us south-west into the heavily-wooded hills cut with deep bottomless gorges, tattered cloud gathered in the valleys. As the daylight faded the weather deteriorated and the wind got up. By the time we turned off the main road at Kawaguchiko we felt quite alarmed at how much the trees were whipping about. The bus wound up and up and up, climbing to the end of the road (at 2,300 metres), where there were a few retail and eating establishments clustered around a car park. It was already dark when we dived through heavy rain into the shelter of the nearest shop, where we spent about an hour acclimatising and getting all our gear on.


The other twenty or so bus passengers were also hanging out there and many of the gaijin were very poorly equipped, some with jeans and trainers, and quite a few had clearly come without waterproofs as they were all kitted out with the same flimsy ones from the shop there.


After about an hour it seemed that as one we all girded ourselves and made for the exit, having realised that the conditions were not about to improve. With head torches on, we peered around the dim car park and I hazarded a guess at where the climbing route might begin. Luckily I got it right as everyone else followed me unquestioningly. At first the track went a little downhill and then levelled off so we wondered when the ascent would begin, but after about 10 minutes we came to a fork and a signpost with 'Fuji Summit 6km 385 minutes' pointing right. The Lonely Planet guide says the climb is approx 4.5 hours but the signpost turned out to be far more realistic, at least for us.


The trail led up through some trees for a while at a fairly gentle gradient and apart from the howling wind stealing breath from our mouths it felt very comfortable. We came to a hut, which I think was the 6th station, and then the real climb began. Again, we all lurked around outside for a few minutes wondering if we really ought to be making the attempt in such inclement weather, then as a single body we scurried from the shelter of the building and started up the zigzagging path. For an hour or more we wound our way up the mountain's flank, and I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the trail as it was wide and not loose underfoot as I had expected, and there was always a head-height wall on the upper side of each switchback to protect us from the full force of the blasting wind.



We reached the first of seven huts that make up the 7th station, and it took a good hour from the first to the last. We stopped at one to refuel on pot noodles and miso soup, and were not happy to hear that we must eat them outside. We found the best respite from the blast was in the outdoor loo and clustered in there for some time, while the windows rattled under the onslaught. At least the toilets didn't smell and even had warm seats!



It took about another two hours to reach the 8th station, at 3,100m.

This section was memorable for rugged slippery rocks that seemed almost melted together, perhaps by volcanic heat. The metal chains on either side were very handy to haul myself up, and I used my hands many times though my fingers were turning numb as my long since soaked gloves chilled them. By now, due to altitude, I was beginning to feel quite nauseous and my breath became laboured. Renate and I seemed to be the only ones suffering, unless the others were better at hiding it and less inclined to moan about it! We stopped briefly outside most huts we came across but there was no room at the inn. At one of the 8th station buildings we asked if we could pay for a futon for an hour and were told that only 3 were available and only at full 'stay' rate of Y5000. We found the staff at most huts were not very friendly, which is not usual for Japan, though I wonder if that is because they get fed up with rude gaijin.


Finally, around 10pm it stopped raining and we had clear skies at last, though there was lightning in the distance on the Izu peninsula. Stars peeped through the remnants of thin cloud. I wondered if I would see any shooting stars and, lo and behold, within a few minutes I saw one, and a fantastic one at that, lasting about two seconds and travelling a long way across the firmament. I shouted out in glee and a few other people around me looked up to see what the fuss was about. Another minute later there was one more, which some others saw too. On either side of the ridge there were deep and large patches of snow in gullies. The crescent moon reclined on a bed of cloud for a while, with the rest of the disc also visible faintly.




At the upper 8th station we were finally offered a decent welcome and were enticed inside for a cup of cocoa and the offer of twenty minutes rest.

We did not want to get up again afterwards but heaved ourselves to our feet as we were stiffening up. The lights of the 9th station still looked a long way up but the path had become reasonable again, with a gentler gradient, steps, and not too many loose stones. Finally we made it to the last hut before the top, and suddenly hordes of people appeared. They seemed to be attached to a tour group and had perhaps been resting in the huts for some time, prior to setting out for the final push before sunrise. Though the new influx of climbers hindered progress, it suited me anyway as my pace had become slower and slower. I was taking perhaps 30 steps at a time and then having to stop and bend over as I fought to settle my breathing and control the nausea. The bottlenecks in the narrowing trail provided enough pauses for me to make steady progress and as the sky began to lighten I could make out the torii gate that marked the objective.





I began to seriously doubt that I would make it to the summit before the sun got above the horizon because there was so much colour in the sky but I pressed on and resigned myself to my fate. At least, I reasoned, I was on the correct side of the mountain to witness sunrise if not from the very top. All the same, I felt very relieved when I turned a corner and saw the final approach to the torii, quickening my pace like most around me.


I felt mild elation and extreme relief when I stepped onto the large flat viewing area at the trailhead, tempered by discomfort in the extreme cold of the bitter wind. We were so fortunate that the timing worked out well and we didn't have to wait more than 10 freezing minutes before the sun broke cover and flashed through the patch of cloud that had already provided many amazing photographs as it became lit orange and pink.

Once the sun was fully up I couldn't bear the cold any longer and pleaded to get off the mountain as quickly as possible, not even caring whether we took any group photos. Most of us felt the same way and we set off in search of our chosen track down, the Gotemba route. Unfortunately I struck off down one busy path eagerly, with the others in train, and found out after a few hundred feet that it was not the right way, so we all had to traipse back uphill. Enquiries set us on the correct trail, and we skirted round about a quarter of the crater's perimeter before we came to the marker telling us to dive off over the side and begin the descent.

I felt some rue that we had not actually managed to go to the highest point on the crater's edge, therefore being perhaps 25 metres or more short of attaining the highest point in Japan (later, Nick gave me a really hard time about it, but nothing could have kept me up in that cold and altitude any longer than I needed to be). It was about 5:15 by the time we left the top and we were hoping to make the 9am bus back to Gotemba station; according to the guide book that was easily achievable.

The path down started as a loose rocky track that was just steep enough to have us skidding out of control if we tried to take it too fast. Most of us fell at least once anyway. The view from up there served as a great reminder that we were two miles high.

The precarious trail went on for what seemed ages but it was perhaps an hour and a half before we made it to the first of several 7th station huts. We were surprised to find that we were the only ones making the descent, as I had assumed this was the prime downward route climbers used. Probably for the best, given the difficult track. The hut had only opened for the season that day, but we received a very warm welcome and went inside to drink our insipid, lukewarm cup of cocoa gratefully.

Twenty minutes on from there, at around 3,000 metres, we finally came to the beginning of the Sunabashiri sand run that I had read so much about in the guide book. At first I wondered what all the fuss was about: 'natural high' etc. Though the path was volcanic sand it was not particularly deep and was scattered with rocks that made it hard to take the 3 metre leaps described in Lonely Planet. Oli and Jo set off with alacrity and I followed hot on their heels as we attempted to run and jump our way off Fuji. The other three were more hesitant and soon disappeared behind us, though eventually Ulla caught us up and remained with us, as we rested from the exertion of all that leaping.

After a kilometre or so the sand got a lot deeper and spread across the whole mountainside, and we really could make rapid progress down the steep slope. For a while it was exhilarating

but the novelty wore off as the constant pressure on my toes began to become painful. It took us well over an hour and a half to cover the descent from 3,000 metres to the car park at 1,500 metres and I knew without looking that it would cost me at least one toenail.

During the latter stages of the sand run we encountered some hardy souls who were jogging slowly upwards. In all we passed a couple of hundred and I think that they might have been military as I later saw some SDF jeeps parked and we saw a base in Gotemba. Some ladies in a gift shop informed us that they did the run up Fuji every Sunday. I can't imagine how fit they must be to run up there and on a sandy surface to boot.

We had missed the 9am bus by miles so stopped off for a cold drink. I shed as many layers as possible in the fierce heat but knew that I must not remove my boots until I was safely on the bus. We limped the final few hundred feet to the bus stop and I changed gratefully into my flip-flops and some clean clothes. The 10am bus soon got us to Gotemba station. We had to leave Renate and Keysha a long way back as I don't think that they ran down any of the Sunabashiri at all.

On the comfortable train back to Tokyo we all nodded off at various times during the 90 minute journey, though I didn't feel as tired as I expected after being up all night and exerting myself so severely for 13 hours. In fact, I was amazed that my legs were not completely seized up after 5 hours of downward strain (even next day they were pretty much OK). Back in the city I trudged wearily from Azabu to the apartment in sweltering temperatures with a certain sense of the surreal. After a quick shower I sank gladly into bed: Nick had taken Emily off to Toy Kingdom for the day to allow me a chance for a nap. I got two hours before they came home and felt fine until after dinner when I flagged badly.