Emily woke us shortly before the 7am alarm we had set, and we greeted the birthday girl. We went straight downstairs to eat. There was the usual slightly odd selection of dishes you find on an Asian buffet breakfast: sugary cereals, bread and jam, braised tofu, noodles, rice, bacon, star fruit, porridge, pasta salad. It was decent enough and we ate enough to begin the day with full bellies. Back in our room, Emily opened her cards and the few small gifts I had brought with us.
I felt so bad that she would have to wait such a long time for the main event, but at least she had had her party and I was so glad I had done it, though I still felt there was a sense of anticlimax for the actual day.
The taxi to the main station didn't take too long so the stress I had felt gradually evaporated as it became clear we would be in plenty of time. I had booked tickets online but now we had to collect them. Gary had worried us about a lack of helpfulness and of English (rather unduly it turned out); we picked them up without any problem and had an hour to kill before boarding the fast service for Hualien. There was a Christmas display with a moving, singing Santa model that captivated Emily, so we set up camp by him with our bags while we took it in turns to go off foraging for supplies and souvenirs. Emily loved the little model Tze Chiang train I found for her. We were somewhat disconcerted when I took her to the toilets as a man and woman were in the Ladies with a large video camera, apparently filming a piece for TV. The woman was going in and out of the only sit-down loo while saying her lines; the others all being squat toilets which Emily does not like, we left with our aim thwarted.
We got onto the smart express train and found our spacious pair of seats. First we passed through suburbs then along valleys and through tunnels into the heavily-vegetated hills and mountains that block the way to the east coast. Taiwan has 165 mountains over 3,000m, a great density for such a small island. The plant life consisted of palm trees, bamboo and water-flooded paddies. We also spotted some banana trees and some coconuts. It all felt decidedly exotic and not at all like Japan. We broke through to the Pacific coast and Emily's mood improved for a while as she had been getting very tetchy. The rest of the two hour journey was close to the sea, though it receded beyond paddies, industrial areas and grey towns at times. Emily becamse very upset and I felt close to tears to think she was so fed up on her birthday just so we could satisfy our curiosity and come to Taiwan.
At long last we arrived at Hualien, not a moment too soon. Our hotel had sent their shuttle minibus for the 10 minute ride to the out of town seaside establishment. The immediate environs was done in Mediterranean style - all whitewash and blue - but it was surrounded by a scrapyard and ugly concrete dwellings. Emily was very taken with several stray dogs and kept waving to them but they looked a bit mangey and and left poo and wee all around the promenade. It is a strange area, with obvious recent efforts to modernise as there was nice landscaping in places, but it is still in the process of being cleaned up and made into a leisure destination. Fighter jets at the nearby provincial airport had Emily a bit nervous at first as they screeched past. It was only a few hundred metres from the sea though, and it sat at the bottom end of a wide-sweeping bay with steep mountains dropping straight down to the ocean. The water colour close to shore was turquoise, even under heavy cloud.
We hung out in our pleasant room for a while and ate some birthday cake (which I had prearranged with the hotel to be waiting for us)
then ventured forth to the beach, which was a mixture of coarse sand and stones. Emily had cheered up and we had a nice time together.
The large breakers were very powerful due to a sharp shelf near the shore, booming with every toppling crest. Nick and I screamed and ran when one whopper chased us up the beach after we got too close, narrowly missing a soaking. It was cloudy and windy, but not at all cold. There was a warm gust in the aftermath of every wave, like opening the bathroom door after a shower. I am not sure I would want to bathe even if the sea was calm, as we found several dead spikey fish.
There were some odd boats lying on the grass behind the beach, which are made from large plastic piping but I think modelled on original aboriginal craft fashioned from bamboo poles. These do apparently put to sea, though I would not feel safe in one with the surf so rough. There are many tribespeople on the east coast and they seem to have darker skin than other Taiwanese.
After we returned to the hotel Emily got upset again and was clearly tired after our earlyish start and no nap, plus all the emotional energy used on the train. The nascent resort seemed ill-served with dining choices but on enquiry we were told about a western combo style restaurant 5 minutes walk along the shore road. Emily had a meltdown on the way there so we arrived at the huge establishment with her very subdued and red-eyed. The place must seat a good 150 but we were the only ones there. It is slightly odd, having a goats theme and though they asked if had come for a drink or food they did not sell beer and only had sweet red wine available. We ordered and Emily pottered around the cavernous place examining every model and plant and playing mazes around the empty tables. At least she was now having fun, and we managed to get some morsels of food down her when she stopped by the table on her ramblings. Our three main courses were massive and actually pretty good so we dined very well. Nick tried the complimentary hot goats' milk but said it was very tangy so I passed. Even as we left, we were still the only customers so I don't know how they survive or why they bother opening out of season.
On the walk back we gazed at the full moon as it appeared through scudding clouds. In the room I settled Emily then left Nick relaxing on the bed next to her (naturally, he ended up falling asleep) while I retired to the cafe provided for guests, where they have internet and free coffee and snacks laid on. It almost feels like a hostel but with superior rooms and the general decor is fresh and attractive.
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