We really wanted to go to Kamakura again and decided to go on this day as we knew it would be heaving from January 1st, being a prime spot for Japanese to do hatsumode (first worship of year). Ostensibly as a treat for Emily, but secretly for our benefit too, we went a circuitous way, to take in the Shonan suspended monorail then the dinky Enoden train that runs along the coast from Enoshima to Kamakura.
We got off at Hase and quickly made our way to Cafe ChaCa, our usual haunt. I had expected it to be very busy but we were almost the only customers.
After a leisurely lunch we walked up the road to the Big Buddha (Daibutsu). We have been many times before but we always enjoy seeing the serene giant bronze statue, even though it is invariably packed at the site. This time there was an even bigger proportion than usual of foreigners.
We didn't stay long, as our main objective for the day was to walk from there over the hills to Kita Kamakura, along a hiking trail of about 5km. To begin with, Nick was carrying Emily in the kid carrier, though it must have been a big strain for him to get her up the initial steep steps now that she is 16kg. Once away from the road we found ourselves on a pleasant unmade track that weaved around roots and stones over the wooded hills, with the odd view down to the sea. Most other walkers were gaijin and were walking the opposite way (probably because Lonely Planet features the walk but coming from the other direction).
Halfway along the trail was a diversion to visit Zeniarai-Benten: 'money-washing shrine'. Emily was a bit nervous about going into the cave there at first, especially as we had to pass a guardian brazier of smoking incense sticks, but she enjoyed bathing our money, which was placed in a basket (both coins and notes - the latter soon air-dry). The object is to increase one's fortune.
There was a pretty little pool against a rocky backdrop, with obligatory carp, of course. Emily wanted to walk by now and happily strode back up the steep hill to rejoin the path we were following. We carried on over hill and dale for another hour or so, during the whole of which she stayed on her feet.
We saw several grey squirrels playing by another small pathside shrine, and the odd cat or three.
With the winter sun low and the temperatures dropping fast, we headed down the last slope in to Kita Kamakura, where we picked up a train back to town. Despite her exertions, Emily stayed awake though she was close to nodding off as Nick carried her from Tamachi to home.
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